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Routes in RGC - Open Spaces Area

The RGC (Roger Gagne Classic) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of the World T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross Eyed Owl T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Open Spaces S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Owl Be Seeing Ya T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Owl's Highway T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smitty's Sport Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Sprague- TR, finally lead by Michael Larson and Conor Cliffe 7/4/2015
Page Views: 381 total, 6/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 10, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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This is another project that I have TRed a bunch of times, but embarrassingly have never lead successfully. I tried a couple times but chickened out at the crux and grabbed the draw, which is silly because it is very well protected. Edit - finally lead by Michael Larson and Conor Cliffe 7/4/2015

If you head down left from the Smoky Dike, there are some big blocks leaning against the wall on your right. Climb up the steep hand/finger crack in the blocks. From the top carefully lean out and clip a bolt and head up the steep white face, crimping your way to a very thin, technical crimp crux and a pop to a good hold ( a little reachy, could be very hard if shorter than ~5.8). Continue up on juggy flakes (optional cam) until you can clip a bolt and do a committing step out right to a slabby ramp. Smear your way up the ramp to a final headwall to a mantle onto a sloping ledge and the anchors.

This is an excellent climb. I really wanted to get the lead, but the route has been sitting there too long for me to hold dibs. If you want to get on it, have fun.


down left of the Smoky Dike, at the start of the tall steep wall


bolts, gear for the crack start up the blocks or you can walk around and stick clip the first bolt from the top of the blocks. You can use an optional cam if you don't like the easy runout above the crux. A few longer draws or slings will alleviate rope drag since the route snakes around. 60m rope needed


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M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Cool! I guess the tree has fallen out of the way. The Champagne is tucked into an alcove behind a rock under a boulder ;) No guarantees on what it will taste like at this point. Jul 28, 2015
Michael Larson and I free'd this on the 4th of July. A terrific route with a unique start. Great eye!! Jul 28, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
A big dead pine has fallen against the bottom of this route. It will take some engineering to get it off or a couple winters to knock it down. May 20, 2013
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Ha! I bet you would have a hard time finding it. If I was out there though, I would pop it. A little competition might get me out there faster. I have a couple things I want to finish at Greens this year and then I hope to be able to take my attention back to Owls for a while. The days are already getting shorter though. Hopefully we will have a long warm dry rock season this Fall. Sep 11, 2012
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
So what I'm hearing is "There's a bottle of Russian Champagne hidden out at Owls that Jared I will drink after we lead this route" Sep 10, 2012
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
There is actually a bottle of Russian Champagne hidden out at Owls that I am not supposed to drink until I lead this route. Sep 10, 2012