Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: FA Michael Larson and Conor Cliffe 7/4/2015
Page Views: 588 total · 7/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Sep 10, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is another project that I have TRed a bunch of times, but embarrassingly have never lead successfully. I tried a couple times but chickened out at the crux and grabbed the draw, which is silly because it is very well protected. Edit - finally lead by Michael Larson and Conor Cliffe 7/4/2015

If you head down left from the Smoky Dike, there are some big blocks leaning against the wall on your right. Climb up the steep hand/finger crack in the blocks. From the top carefully lean out and clip a bolt and head up the steep white face, crimping your way to a very thin, technical crimp crux and a pop to a good hold ( a little reachy, could be very hard if shorter than ~5.8). Continue up on juggy flakes (optional cam) until you can clip a bolt and do a committing step out right to a slabby ramp. Smear your way up the ramp to a final headwall to a mantle onto a sloping ledge and the anchors.

Location

down left of the Smoky Dike, at the start of the tall steep wall

Protection

bolts, gear for the crack start up the blocks or you can walk around and stick clip the first bolt from the top of the blocks. You can use an optional cam if you don't like the easy runout above the crux. A few longer draws or slings will alleviate rope drag since the route snakes around. 60m rope needed

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