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Routes in RGC - Open Spaces Area

The RGC (Roger Gagne Classic) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crack of the World T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cross Eyed Owl T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Open Spaces S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Owl Be Seeing Ya T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Owl's Highway T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smitty's Sport Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: David Quinn
Page Views: 49 total, 1/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Oct 30, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The 5.9 first pitch of this route is a popular alternative and easiest direct way to get up to the first belay of The RGC, Crack of the World and various projects that lead off from there, and is good in it's own right. It ascends off the flat block in the trail mentioned in the main RGC-Open Spaces area, up the crack in a corner that turns into an offwidth at the top. If you don't want to squirm up the offwidth, a more dignified and to my mind much easier alternative is to reach out left to the nice juggy flake and head straight up on more of the same. Reach up high and you will find them and be able to top out and step over to the bolted belay. There may be a fixed hex pounded into the crack down low. If so, lease leave it there, as it is otherwise difficult to protect the bottom's oddly shaped crack start.

The second pitch continues straight up from the belay, past where The RGC breaks right, then move a little right to stacked blocks on a ledge that you can climb up onto (scary - Dave plans to add a bolt here), to gain a crack\corner system that takes you up to the 3rd anchor of The Crack of the World. Finish by doing the last pitch of The Crack of the World. Rap back down the route in three drops with a single 60m.

Location

See the description and directions to The RGC-Open Spaces area. It starts off the obvious flat block that the trail steps up onto as you head left.

Protection

1 fixed Hex, normal trad rack up to #4 Camalot. You can use a wide Camalot (5 or 6) near the top of the first pitch, but you really don't need it. Bolted anchors.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Thanks, Dave. I corrected the description. You meant "Finish the 4th pitch of The crack of the world", right? What grade do you think the last two pitches are? Oct 24, 2013
I did climb the 2nd pitch to this route. Its pretty much as Mark describes, Climb up and slightly right from the 1st anchor, then move straight up as the RGC traverses to the right. There is a block(s) on a ledge that you can climb up onto, ( I need to add a bolt here) to gain a crack\corner system that takes you up to the 3rd anchor of "The crack of the world". Finish the 3rd pitch of "The crack of the world". Oct 24, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I had to snick back the fixed hex to use elsewhere, but you should be ok with a good spot. The aprox 1 inch long hex wedged lengthwise seems to be the best piece for the funkily shaped crack at the start. Jun 8, 2013