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Barnacles & Bo Schwan
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in North Carolina Wall
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Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tightrope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 35.87662, -81.89174 |
| FA: | Ryan Parker, Rachel Taylor |
| Page Views: | 1,419 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Parker on Aug 14, 2012 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Description
Protection for the first three pitches is scarce so keep your eyes open for placements, it's not uncommon to go 30' between placements. And if you can't find the holds, scrape away the lichen that covers most of this climb.
P1: Start with some nice 5.5 face climbing for approximately 80 feet to a small vegetated ledge for the belay.
P2: From the small ledge the climbing here is 5.6 face climbing for about 90' feet. The belay is another obvious vegetated ledge.
P3: The first 40'-50' of this 5.8 pitch is unprotected and protection remains scarce until with in 20' of the belay ledge. The pitch is approximately 120' feet (I placed 6 pieces, two of which were in the 20' just before the belay.)
P4: After both climbers reach the belay after pitch 3 bushwhack for a couple minutes back to the vertical wall, the climbing here is only 5.5 and protection is no longer as hard to find as the first three pitches. Climb until you top out, about 120', and scramble up the last bit of class 3.
Hike out on the MTS trail.
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