Mountain Project Logo

Routes in North Carolina Wall

Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Ryan Parker, Rachel Taylor
Page Views: 543 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ryan Parker on Aug 14, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Protection for the first three pitches is scarce so keep your eyes open for placements, it's not uncommon to go 30' between placements. And if you can't find the holds, scrape away the lichen that covers most of this climb.

P1: Start with some nice 5.5 face climbing for approximately 80 feet to a small vegetated ledge for the belay.

P2: From the small ledge the climbing here is 5.6 face climbing for about 90' feet. The belay is another obvious vegetated ledge.

P3: The first 40'-50' of this 5.8 pitch is unprotected and protection remains scarce until with in 20' of the belay ledge. The pitch is approximately 120' feet (I placed 6 pieces, two of which were in the 20' just before the belay.)

P4: After both climbers reach the belay after pitch 3 bushwhack for a couple minutes back to the vertical wall, the climbing here is only 5.5 and protection is no longer as hard to find as the first three pitches. Climb until you top out, about 120', and scramble up the last bit of class 3.

Hike out on the MTS trail.

Location

Take the approach down to the tarantula ledge area of NC Wall and walk as far as you can until you can't walk any further. The start is about 10-15 yards from the end of the ledge.

Protection

Basic multi-pitch rack. Small cams or TCU's are helpful.

Photos

Will Sweeney
Zachariah, Kentucky
Will Sweeney   Zachariah, Kentucky
You guys went somewhere other than Table Rock this day? Mar 4, 2013