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Routes in North Carolina Wall

Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Doug Swords, Nathan Brown
Page Views: 1,502 total, 13/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jun 26, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route climbs the tallest and steepest part of the NC wall. It took quite a while to complete due to hard climbing, poor rock that had to be cleaned (P-1), and poor summer weather conditions, but it's a very worthwhile line for the grade and deserves some traffic.

P-1 Start under the right side of the cave feature. Climb the feature past 3 bolts and gear (up to a # 3 camelot). The 3rd bolt is a difficult clip (placed high due to poor rock quality lower). Belay at 2 bolt hanging belay. Note: This pitch makes for a great rainy day pitch if you happen to be in the area (when it comes). Huge roofs protect from even the heaviest of storms.

P-2 Crank hard up the steep wall past a bolt and a few pieces of gear to a belay at a good horizontal. Air time is not mandatory but is very likely!

P-3 Climb out right and up the steep clean wall past a pin (may need to be replaced) to a technical face and eventually a large belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

P-4 Continue to top via numerous possibilities.

Location

Between Direct Action and Pixie Wall.

Protection

Standard rack. Hybrid aliens were used on the FA and would likely be usefull.

Photos

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