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Routes in North Carolina Wall

Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P-1/P-2 Nathan Brown rope solo. 2001 P-3 Nathan Brown, Doug Swords, Christian Drum 2001
Page Views: 2,182 total, 23/month
Shared By: nbrown on Mar 31, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a great climb up the center of this smooth vertical part of the NC wall.

P-1 This pitch just got a bolt added to the start -- it is about 20 ' up. Climb straight up to the bolt and move slightly right, then back up and left to some good holds and gear. Continue up the weakness that takes you up the water streak at the top. Belay next to the large boulder that sits on the edge of the ledge.

P-2 From this giant ledge, climb the faint corner features directly in front of the boulder past surreal holds and gear placements. There is a fixed pin up high. Belay at stainless cables (chockstone rap anchor) under the overlap at about 100'. There are quite a few placements that are better with hybrid aliens up to the yellow/red size. Also bring some small brass. 5.10-

P-3 Pull roof and move right a ways before climbing straight to the top. 5.9-

Var last pitch: Pull roof and continue straight up the steep exposed wall past a bolt to the top. This is the recommended finish at 5.10+.

Location

Right of the Slimey, and left of The Limey

Protection

NC wall rack. P-2 is protected by numerous excellent small to medium nuts and cams, as well as hybrid aliens and some small brass.

P-1 just got an upgrade -- bolt to protect the start.

Photos

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