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Routes in North Carolina Wall
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Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tightrope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | P-1/P-2 Nathan Brown rope solo. 2001 P-3 Nathan Brown, Doug Swords, Christian Drum 2001 |
| Page Views: | 3,724 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Mar 31, 2010 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The yearly seasonal raptor closure has been lifted as of late June 2020.
Description
This is a great climb up the center of this smooth vertical part of the NC wall.
P-1 This pitch just got a bolt added to the start -- it is about 20 ' up. Climb straight up to the bolt and move slightly right, then back up and left to some good holds and gear. Continue up the weakness that takes you up the water streak at the top. Belay next to the large boulder that sits on the edge of the ledge.
P-2 From this giant ledge, climb the faint corner features directly in front of the boulder past surreal holds and gear placements. There is a fixed pin up high. Belay at stainless cables (chockstone rap anchor) under the overlap at about 100'. There are quite a few placements that are better with hybrid aliens up to the yellow/red size. Also bring some small brass. 5.10-
P-3 Pull roof and move right a ways before climbing straight to the top. 5.9-
Var last pitch: Pull roof and continue straight up the steep exposed wall past a bolt to the top. This is the recommended finish at 5.10+.
P-1 This pitch just got a bolt added to the start -- it is about 20 ' up. Climb straight up to the bolt and move slightly right, then back up and left to some good holds and gear. Continue up the weakness that takes you up the water streak at the top. Belay next to the large boulder that sits on the edge of the ledge.
P-2 From this giant ledge, climb the faint corner features directly in front of the boulder past surreal holds and gear placements. There is a fixed pin up high. Belay at stainless cables (chockstone rap anchor) under the overlap at about 100'. There are quite a few placements that are better with hybrid aliens up to the yellow/red size. Also bring some small brass. 5.10-
P-3 Pull roof and move right a ways before climbing straight to the top. 5.9-
Var last pitch: Pull roof and continue straight up the steep exposed wall past a bolt to the top. This is the recommended finish at 5.10+.
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