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Routes in North Carolina Wall

Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Apricot Jam T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tightrope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: 1973 - Bob Rotert, Tom McMillan
Page Views: 2,455 total · 25/month
Shared By: GWB on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 Details

Description

P1: Crux starts down low with a right leaning finger crack/boulder problem. Probably a bit more like solid 5.10 with easy pro. Move up and right then back left to old slings at a ledge under a roof (60').
P2: Climb right then up a fun corner up until it ends then find your way to a mossy ledge (50'). Variation pulls the roof at around 5.10 then up to the ledge.
P3: Follow open book corner til it ends then trend right until you find another good belay stance under a roof (100+').
P4: Move left then up to a roof and traverse to the end finding a nice diving board to belay from (~100').

Location

Locate a two-trunked tree with a white blaze marking the climbers trail. Apricot Buttress takes the first right possible and meanders along the rim trail to the descent gully. Maneuver your way to the bottom of the steep and precarious gully climbers left of the main NC Wall descent trail. Tattered fixed ropes lead down to boulder on the right (climbers left) and a right facing, overhung face. Start up the crack. Scout out the climb and the descent gully while on the rim trail.

Protection

Old core shot ropes down the gully and a standard rack up to #3.

Photos

The route decription is really good. One of the finest free climbs of my career. Just beware of that first crux at the bottom. The hard part is to move from start with right hand on flat hold to finger crack just above. I have seen a climber land flat on his back on this one. (wind knocked out of him but okay) If you cannot seem to free this move, place a sky hook on the right hand flat hold and step up with a runner and place a wired nut in the crack above and then pull up and place foot on same hold as hook was. Yes, I know it's an aid move but will get climb started (after a lenghy and difficult approach). The rest of climb is still mostly 5.9+ and a absolute classic. Be careful as this is a very bad place to be hurt. Nov 21, 2012
chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.10a/b
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.10a/b
5.9? you cant be serious. The start of this thing is a v1-2 boulder problem. Apr 14, 2013
Austin Cooner
  5.10a/b
Austin Cooner  
  5.10a/b
P1 is really great! loved the boulder problem at the start and climbed like classic. P2 was also super exciting. P3-4 left much to be desired, but much easier than the start.

Public advisory: this "9" is sandbagged even by NC standards! felt mid 10ish, esp at the start and through the P2 corner. Oct 15, 2016
nbrown
western NC --> Broomfield, CO
 
nbrown   western NC --> Broomfield, CO
 
Ryan, it sounds like you might have been on the last pitch if captain hooks - it goes up the orange wall at ~ 5.11 climbing. Apricot goes around this to the right then back left. I'm curious about the bolts - got any pics? Nov 27, 2017
Ryan Frank
Little Rock, AR
Ryan Frank   Little Rock, AR
Thanks for the info that makes more sense. It made for a cool pitch Nov 27, 2017
Ryan Frank
Little Rock, AR
Ryan Frank   Little Rock, AR
I think I might have traversed into Capt hooks a few feet above the second bolt Nov 27, 2017
Ryan Frank
Little Rock, AR
Ryan Frank   Little Rock, AR
If you’re looking for a more challenging exit head left at the major left up leaning cleft in the wall through orange exposed rock about horizontal to a bolt with one more bolt above the roof to left. Seems like we did a link up but I think the difficulty stays in the ten range that way. Nov 29, 2017
Lewis L
Asheville, NC
  5.9+
Lewis L   Asheville, NC
  5.9+
The descent gully is extra sketchy these days. The fires have left nothing large enough to fix a rope to. Highly recommend using the rock horn rappel described in Horseshoes and Hand Grenades. Jul 1, 2018

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