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Routes in North Carolina Wall

Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tightrope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 500 ft, 5 pitches
FA: FA Brad shaver, Bob Mitchell,art Williams. FFA was Howard, Stegg, and Okel
Page Views: 675 total · 28/month
Shared By: wes calkins on Nov 29, 2016
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 Details


P1. Begin at a obvious corner crack system left of bumblebee buttress. Climb, jam, and stem your way up the corner past 3 fixed pins(5.10). Once above the 3rd pin you can get an additional piece of gear and then begin a rightward traverse. Take heart in this moment as you begin the traverse, a small tcu will be found at head height after 10-15 feet of horizontal movement from the corner feature(5.8). Continue along a horizontal crack and belay or link with P2.

P2. From the horizontal crack continue right to another left facing corner, passing a nest of rap slings on a chockstone and climb up the corner to a belay at a single bolt that can be backed up with other dubious gear. (The bolt is new and in good condition) 5.7

P3. From the bolt belay go left and up passing many horizontals that accept small to medium cams. The route from here could take many variations so seek out the gear and path of least resistance. Once you get out of the steep climbing and the angle of the wall eases find a stance and belay off a gear anchor. 5.10

P4. Continue up the steep ,but less than vertical, lichen covered wall to an obvious large ledge with a large pine tree. 5.9

P5. Many options from here exist to make it past the last rock band. Choose your own adventure

I have tried to climb this route several time and have found the upper pitches to be wet. The first pitch is a worthy climb and it is easily rappelled with a single rope at a nest of slings after the first pitch traverse.


Located on the NC wall 100 yards Left of the obvious large dihedral of Bumblebee.


Double rack from tcus to hand size. 1 #3 c4 should suffice.



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