Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Nathan Brown, Wes Calkins, Daryl Macinnes|
|Page Views:||1,715 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||nbrown on Jul 28, 2013|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
This route can be easily approached by rapping directly down from the top with one 60 meter rope to the fixed nut anchor, and then one more to the bottom. The annoying bushes at the bottom actually are helpful to keep the ropes out of the wet gully and dry. The first rap is from a large rock horn located just over the edge near the large tree at the overlook - see picture.
Start in the obvious left diagonaling line near the bottom of the gully (right of spectre man). A bouldery start gains the moderate crack feature which leads to a couple bolts on the arete. A technical and powerful crux gives way to some overlapping features and a chance for a kneebar rest. Place a small cam/nut here. Continue up and right on the overhanging wall past 2 more bolts and a 5 foot roof. Crank this (protected by a fixed stopper at the lip) and continue up to a fixed nut anchor about 15 feet above.
Either climb the easy face out or lower.
Note: The starting gully is often wet. If so, plan on stacking and hanging the rope to keep it up and out of the water and you'll be good to go. Also, we placed a couple of rocks on the starting ledge that serve as a dry place to start.