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Routes in North Carolina Wall
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Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tightrope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Mitchell and Bob Gillespie 1970 |
| Page Views: | 11,251 total · 51/month |
| Shared By: | Danny Inman on Jun 4, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The yearly seasonal raptor closure has been lifted as of late June 2020.
Description
P1- 5.8: Start from the top of a 10'-high block and climb the wide chimney using face holds until it is possible to gain the arete. Continue up the arete for a short ways and then start trending left and up aiming for the left-facing corner/crack system. Once in the corner continue to the just below the prominent bomb-bay roof. (100 feet)
P2- 5.8: Climb up to and out of the bomb-bay roof, follow the crack and corner system through a couple more bulges until a large ledge is reached. (100 feet)
P3- 5.8: Climb on top of a large block to gain the face. Climb the face, traversing a good distance to the right and then shoot up through the right-side of the bulge, continue up via good holds to a large ledge. At first glance this pitch seems in obvious, but following the holds and the gear placements will lead you up and over the bulge in the right place. (100')
P4- 5.5 Climb the face to the top. (150')
From the top follow a faint trail that is marked with orange blaze back to the main MTS trail.
P2- 5.8: Climb up to and out of the bomb-bay roof, follow the crack and corner system through a couple more bulges until a large ledge is reached. (100 feet)
P3- 5.8: Climb on top of a large block to gain the face. Climb the face, traversing a good distance to the right and then shoot up through the right-side of the bulge, continue up via good holds to a large ledge. At first glance this pitch seems in obvious, but following the holds and the gear placements will lead you up and over the bulge in the right place. (100')
P4- 5.5 Climb the face to the top. (150')
From the top follow a faint trail that is marked with orange blaze back to the main MTS trail.
Location
This route is located on the Main North Carolina Wall. From the approach gully head down stream following a trail at the base of the wall. Look for a very distinct left-facing corner system just before the trail and the wall curves to the left. The start is identified by a 10' high block with a tree at the base and a small tree on top.
As of Sept. 16, 2024, the second trail after the Chimneys (the first after the trail with the arrowhead block) is a better, more direct approach to the gulley at the Mossy Monster. Recently trimmed of briars, branches and some small saplings.
The base of the route (the 10' block) is at coordinates (35.87465, -81.89295).
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