Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Dylan Demyanek
Page Views: 1,904 total · 24/month
Shared By: Dylan Demyanek on Jun 21, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

From the start hold 10 feet inside the cave on the left, follow the vertical to overhanging crack/flake system for about 20 feet to a large jug. Using an undercling on the roof, make a reach to a slopey hold and stem up the remaining 10 feet of crack to the top. ***DO NOT USE THE CHOCKSTONES IN THE CRACK.*** They are quite insecure and likely to fall out if used.

For full value on this route, do not use the east side of the cave wall for chimneying/stemming, but stay exclusively to the western overhanging wall until you reach the final crack section.

Location

To find this route, locate the large off-width crack about 50 feet to the south of the roof route. From here, walk around the pillar until you reach a cave-like formation. The start of the route is about 10 feet inside the cave on the left hand side. The start hold is a right hand jug about 7 feet off the ground.

Protection

This route is possible to top rope by putting two or three slings around the large, pedestal-style, rock formation on top of the large pillar. Alternatively, there is opportunity for gear placement throughout the entire route, and it would be possible to climb traditionally.

Eds. Per Jarrod Keller, this now has bolted anchors.

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