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Routes in Duncan's Ridge

Africa's West Coast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apples T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bird Shit Avenue T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cheeseburger in Paradise TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conglomerate Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corner Climb T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crackmard T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Icebreaker Arete V4 6B
Kahlua Roof V6 7A
Left of The Nose TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liberty's Last Stand TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lichen Roof TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monster Block Full SDS V6-7 7A+
Northern Unnamed T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Nose, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Oranges S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out of the Black S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Purdy Dirty TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roof Route T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South OW aka Front Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Corner T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed Overhang TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unnamed Top Rope Section T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wide Side, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wishbone Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 56 total · 22/month
Shared By: Mathias on Dec 3, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Not to be confused with the Left Nostril, this line starts directly below the same dihedral on the left side of The Nose. This route was challenging and varied but seemed no harder than 5.7, so I thought it might be a welcome addition to new climbers.

Start on a rock and step up onto a small sloping shelf directly below a bulge. Work right into a lichen covered open book, and head straight up to the small, blocky overhangs just left of The Nose roof. Going left under the first overhang then back right under the second leaves the climber in the left-facing dihedral with a clear line to the top of the ridge.

Location

Find The Nose, an obvious feature on the southern cliff band of Duncan's Ridge. Start 6 feet left of here on a rock below a large bulge 12 feet above.

Protection

A toprope anchor can be made a few feet back from the edge of the cliff and easily extended into an obvious, V-shaped notch on the edge in order to avoid rope drag. No gear beyond a standard rack should be necessary for the anchor itself.

Sorry, there are no fixed anchors here.

While the second half of this route could take plenty of gear, the first half is devoid of placements.

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