Left of The Nose
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||TR, 45 ft|
|Page Views:||56 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Mathias on Dec 3, 2017|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionNot to be confused with the Left Nostril, this line starts directly below the same dihedral on the left side of The Nose. This route was challenging and varied but seemed no harder than 5.7, so I thought it might be a welcome addition to new climbers.
Start on a rock and step up onto a small sloping shelf directly below a bulge. Work right into a lichen covered open book, and head straight up to the small, blocky overhangs just left of The Nose roof. Going left under the first overhang then back right under the second leaves the climber in the left-facing dihedral with a clear line to the top of the ridge.
LocationFind The Nose, an obvious feature on the southern cliff band of Duncan's Ridge. Start 6 feet left of here on a rock below a large bulge 12 feet above.
ProtectionA toprope anchor can be made a few feet back from the edge of the cliff and easily extended into an obvious, V-shaped notch on the edge in order to avoid rope drag. No gear beyond a standard rack should be necessary for the anchor itself.
Sorry, there are no fixed anchors here.
While the second half of this route could take plenty of gear, the first half is devoid of placements.