Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,203 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brian Weinstein on Aug 11, 2004 with updates from patrick donahue
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

The route is located through the brush about 100 feet south of the roof route area. It's a prominent hand crack start followed by a short offwidth and tops out on a blocky face. Start with the nice hand crack (5.7+) for 15 feet to the offwidth. Enter the offwidth and grunt through (crux) whereupon climbing eases towards the top.

Note that a TR can also be set from above.

A nice and quick intro to hand cracks and offwidths.

Protection

Bringa a rack of hand and offwidth size protection. A rack with 1 small set of stoppers/tri-cams for the upper section and anchor is useful.

Per patrick donahue: bring a rack from BD c4 #2-#6, and a rack of small nuts for the top is nice.

Photos

Danny
  5.9
Danny  
  5.9
When everything at Duncan's is taken, rest assured this one is open. This is IMHO the best route at Duncan's. Depending on the time of year, there can be varying amounts of poo poo at the beginning of the crux. A big piece (i.e., #5 Camalot) will add some piece of mind; however, some hardmen do it with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot. Oct 10, 2005
Tanner Mitchell
Fort Collins CO
Tanner Mitchell   Fort Collins CO
Anyone have any photos of this route? Sep 28, 2008
Jake Kay
Jackson WY
  5.9
Jake Kay   Jackson WY
  5.9
Fun route, with cool crux moves. A few pigeon nests, so don't mistake the bird crap for chalk marks. Mar 23, 2009
Robert Curry
Evans, Co
Robert Curry   Evans, Co
Yes, yes, the pigeon crap doesn't work very well. May 19, 2009
Some of the better rock at Duncan's with a sick move from a stance around to the flake with grat jams to the top. Jul 30, 2010
John R. Williams
Fort Collins, CO
 
John R. Williams   Fort Collins, CO
 
Very fun crux. Reach high over bulge for big hands (watch for wet poo!).
Fun route, would be a good tough lead. Dec 19, 2010
Rockanice
New York
Rockanice   New York
This used to be called "Front Crack" by the old school and still is by some. Good climbing. Oct 19, 2015