Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,927 total · 46/month
Shared By: Joe M on Jul 26, 2001
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

73 Opinions

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Go up and over the major roof at Duncan's Ridge. The route is dead center in the middle of the Ridge between the 5.7 Corner and the 5.9 Dihedral route.


Bring some long slings for the TR anchors and maybe a tricam or two.

Eds. Per Jarrod Keller: this route now has a bolted anchor.

Per Ryan Nelson: this had been retrobolted with 6 bolts, but those were removed years ago.

Per MikeDee Dickinson: one of the anchor bolts is loose. Back it up!


This is a pretty fun roof. There are some great holds on it, some are just a little hard to find. The bolts on this route are no longer there. Bring a good bit of webbing and you can use the anchors for the 5.7 ( the route to the left) to top rope it. Sep 6, 2003
Looks like the girl in the picture is in for a gnarly fall! Hope she made it. Sep 1, 2004
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
There is a picture of a girl leading this route... this is not a very good route to lead unless you are confident of the moves. If you are confident of them, then rock on bro!! Feb 3, 2005
  5.10c R
  5.10c R
5.10. . . what?
I'd give this 10c and a Very serious R.
Maybe a hold or two or three or four broke or something.
Would absolutely rec. TR before a lead.
Cool little climb.
For the area, the diverse climbing and the quality, I give 'er 3 stars. . . some may argue. Mar 6, 2007
Fort Collins, CO
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
This is a great TR. The anchor at the top takes a couple of nuts and a #1 Camalot. Apr 23, 2007
Rob C
Fort Collins, CO
Rob C   Fort Collins, CO
A good roof problem 40 feet off the ground. The roof is not easily protected on lead, if at all. The beta photo of the gal shows where the last piece can go until you're standing above. It would be a nasty deck fall. Fun on TR. A four piece nut anchor was bomber. Jun 16, 2008
Robert Curry
Evans, Co
Robert Curry   Evans, Co
I checked out the roof and cracks opposing both sides .. roof was very scary and I took a lil drop when I tried. I'll be back soon. May 19, 2009
Erik Kowalczyk
Fort Collins, CO
Erik Kowalczyk   Fort Collins, CO
Under the roof, there is something that resembles a bolt but looks like a glue-in paper clip. I avoided clipping this but soon realized it lead to a long run out with an R rated fall. I don't know if I should clip this. Has anyone climbed this route since the bolts were added? Jun 11, 2015
Fort Collins, CO
Dan1124   Fort Collins, CO
Erik - that's a recently added glue-in bolt. I've taken hangs on it and seen a number of people fall on it, so it's good to clip. Jun 13, 2015
Sam Sala
  5.10b/c PG13
Sam Sala   Denver
  5.10b/c PG13
Felt brutal for a 10. Maybe 10b/c??? Rapped in to look at it and decided to take a lap on TR before a lead try. Glad I did, and will have to work this one a bit more before I get on lead. A fall pulling over the roof would not be great even with the new bolts. The bulge just below the roof is weird as well...don't underestimate it. Jun 19, 2015
The glue-in on the roof is just what the doctor ordered! Clip from a nice stance. Reach up find the good holds. Couple of high feet to pull the roof to an awkward bulge. I found little opportunity for good pro directly above the roof but was able to plug a hand sized cam a little higher. Top roping first definitely not a bad idea, but this is an awful toprope set up! Lots of drag. I prefer to rap off this rather than get lowered by my belayer. Very fun climb with great pro where you need it. Jul 11, 2015
Jack Laven
  5.10b R
Jack Laven  
  5.10b R
When I was TR'ing this a couple weeks ago, I didn't see any bolts except the glue-in. I wasn't looking for the bolts, but don't be surprised if they aren't there.
Just a heads up. Sep 19, 2015
One of the two permanent anchor bolts at the top of the roof route is quite loose. The nut is secure, but the bolt itself is pretty jiggly. Backed it up with a long sling and locking biner from a nearby rock yesterday. A nut and runner set in a nearby crack would do the same job. Check yourself before you deck yoourself. Mar 23, 2016
Brendan Armesy   Golden
I was up there Monday (9/26/16), and the anchor bolts at the top were both tight. Sep 27, 2016
Andrew Vinzant
Kansas City, MO
Andrew Vinzant   Kansas City, MO
When I see a straight 10 trad route, I assume it's a b/c.

5.10a = 10-
5.10b/c = 10
5.10d = 10+

Not sure of the confusion minus the safety rating. Mar 12, 2017
Dan Brogan
Fort Collins
Dan Brogan   Fort Collins
Left two Trango quickdraws hanging on the chains back on March 24th. The biners are dark silver, the non-wired gates are red (straight) and orange (curved), and the dogbones are black. If you grabbed them, I'd really appreciate getting them back! buckhtr@gmail.com Thanks! May 10, 2017
There must be something about this route that makes people forget their gear. I left 4 brand spanking new Black Diamond Positron biners with green lockers up on this route with bright red cordelette. Once I realized my mistake, I immediately went back to the crag, but someone had grabbed them. I'd really appreciate getting them back. I'd even buy you your favourite 6 pack as a "Thank You!" ubuilbme@gmail.com Mar 19, 2018