Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.17134, -105.36024 |
| FA: | Bernard Gillett and Jason Cushner, 2002 |
| Page Views: | 1,115 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Rich Kelly on Jun 4, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
P1 - Climb up the chimney (9-) about 25' to the layback flake. At this point, if you have big gear (#5 and #6 Camalots), do the layback flake (8+). About 20' up the layback, you can step left to easier terrain if you choose to (we did - but Gillett suggests continuing up the layback). If you do not have big gear, then consider this part at least R-rated. Alternatively, from the belay, take the corner just left of the chimney flake instead (5.7). It joins the normal pitch at a slot that is easily climbed to a nice belay ledge. 60'
P2 - Climb the thin, left-trending crack (9+) just above the belay which will lead to a right-facing corner. Up this easy corner and the easy cracks/face above till you are below another a corner that is capped by a small roof. Awkwardly jam pass the roof (9-) to gain easier terrain once again. Continue to the summit, 120'.
Descent: Rappel from chains found 25' SW of the belay to mid-station rappel point. Recommend 70m for the rap. Gillett indicates 60m will barely make the 1st rap.



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