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Routes in The Hand

Fifty Meter Must S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Love Line S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Dalleske, Kelly Rich, (w/ Lou Renner on p1), 2001
Page Views: 1,685 total, 25/month
Shared By: Trevor James on Apr 12, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Awesome climb. Second pitch is rad.

Location

Starts in the grass on the ground to the left of the meadow area below the 3rd class approach.

Protection

Bolts. Rap anchor at "The Love Seat," and two bolt anchor on top.

Photos

Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.10b/c
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
  5.10b/c
Excellent. Significantly steeper than it looks from the ground.

A couple beta points.

On the approach, it is actually fastest to cross over to the north side of the creek at the far west side of the reservoir. You will know you are in the right spot if after you cross there is a big overhanging boulder with a couple of pine trees. Then follow a trail along the north side of the creek, until you are right below the Hand and can cross back over. Otherwise, you end up bushwacking......a lot.

On the second pitch. Even though it may seem like it is easier to keep traversing after the 6th bolt......dont. Go straight up. There is a wired stopper, and the 7th bolt is a bit higher than that. But the 7th bolt is near impossible to see until you commit to the face. I kept heading left and it took me into some pretty horrendous unprotectable terrain, which I then got to down climb when I realized the error of my ways.

Overall, this is a truly excellent route, and no crowds. Jan 29, 2017
I've only done the first pitch, and I found it super hard just following. The first ascent team rated it 10c officially, but there was talk of solid 10d. The length between bolts was a bit stretched, so while not dangerous it would be a big one. I need to go back and lead the first pitch, and do the second pitch. One of the best climbs in the park, go do it! Apr 18, 2014
bmdhacks  
 
I wouldn't call the first pitch runout. The bolt spacing increases after the 4th bolt, but it's a fairly safe vertical fall. The bolts do seem to be just after all of the cruxy moves, and my partner and I took a few whippers trying to project the first pitch. We started up the second pitch but I downclimbed after pulling off a sizable jug just beyond the second bolt. Ah Pinnacles. Apr 15, 2014
David Delkeskamp
  5.10c R
David Delkeskamp  
  5.10c R
Sweet route. First pitch felt like 10c "r" to me, and pumpy. Second pitch felt like 10a, not runnout, not pumpy, but with very cool exposure. Be sure to sling bolt #6 on pitch two or face big time rope drag. There is a fixed nut after bolt #6 (pitch 2) as of yesterday (3/7/14) that that comes in handy. Definitely primo Pinnacles stuff here. Mar 9, 2014
Ryan Horjus
Boulder, CO
 
Ryan Horjus   Boulder, CO
 
Awesome Rock, Some a bit loose but not many, but a great sustained line. We did the first pitch. A trek to get out there but worth the trip.
Classic Pinns route Apr 25, 2013