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Routes in The Hand
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Burnette Bolt Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Love Line S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Salathe Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Wilts Bolt Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | John Salathe, Robin Hansen and Dick Houston, February 1946 |
| Page Views: | 934 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Jun 17, 2020 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
This route has a well-deserved reputation for boldness not only for the first ascent led by the legendary John Salathe way back in 1946!, but for all those who follow in his footsteps(hint: tread lightly).
Start from the gully between the Hand and the Thumb and spot a single bolt out left on the left(south) wall leading to a huge belay knob. Traverse left to the bolt and then up and left onto the knob with a two-bolt anchor.
The second pitch climbs more or less straight up to a bolt and then angles up and left to a second bolt. More left and upward climbing leads to the top of the climb and a two-bolt anchor shared with the Wilts Bolt Variation.
To descend, scramble 100 feet uphill to find a 2-bolt anchor with chains on top of the route Lifeline. Rappel 95' to the base of the route.
On the first ascent, Salathe reportedly found several piton placements on the second pitch. Good luck with that! Also, before belay bolts were installed at the top of the first pitch, the belay anchors consisted of driving pitons into the small cracks on the underside of the belay knob.
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