Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 330 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Paul Bucher, Skyler Penrod , Taylor Bond
Page Views: 3,781 total, 54/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

P1 Face climb following bolt line passing rap station. Clip one more bolt to great spacious belay ledge with a bomber two-bolt belay station. 5.8, 11 bolts, 110 feet.
P2 Up, then left, pull a fun mantle, then back right to a huge belay ledge with a rap/belay station with 3 bomber bolts. Long draws on bolts #3, (optional long on bolt #4) and bolt #5 to reduce drag. 5.8, 8 bolts, 110 feet.
P3 Climb up following the crack line. Cut left into the corner take that to the top. Good tree on top and one belay bolt. Rap station is obvious on the way up, just below the lip of the summit. Standard rack, 5.9, 110 feet.

Location

Obvious, large, right-leaning ramp, tops out left of huge roofs. Easy to see from road. Approach brings you up just to its right. Move up and left to nice flat belay area. easy to find. Single 70m to the deck and down the way you come up.

Protection

Quickdraws. Standard rack if you're going to the top. one tiny TCU and extra; small fingers to .5 camalot. Single 70.
Izzy K.
Boulder, CO
 
Izzy K.   Boulder, CO
 
very fun climb with a beautiful top out and nobody around. I recommend the sport pitches to anyone looking for a relaxed (but not boring) route to gain confidence leading on; just a little run-out but only on very easy sections. the trad pitch is also nice and fairly easy to lead as a relative beginner.

apparently a great "date climb" May 30, 2016
Lindsey Robinson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Lindsey Robinson   Salt Lake City, UT
 
For the approach, I think the parking pullout is closer to .75 or a mile from the big bend boulders. Then look for cairns to follow up the talus slope. We took a different way up than down so there might different cairn-trails (?). In November, this was nice and sunny from late morning through the afternoon, perfect temps. We had three people, so it was great to have large belay larges. The 3rd pitch trad section was milder than I expected. To me the 5.9 moves were the slabby/sporty moves scattered throughout. I showed up with a double rack, but I think I placed 2x 1s, 1x 2, 1x .5, 1x .4... what I really wanted more of was many more long alpine draws for the 2nd and 3rd pitch. And helmets... The view from the rim is great. It looks like the ammo can refreshments leaked out into the register... oh well. Still, thanks for the route that took us away from wall street crowds! Nov 24, 2015
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
was back up there yesterday, 4/8/14. the refreshment stand was full and functional. Apr 9, 2014
Skyler Penrod
  5.8+ PG13
Skyler Penrod  
  5.8+ PG13
Lots of loose rock came down today! Just gets better with time! Apr 8, 2014
matt evans
salt lake city, UT
  5.9
matt evans   salt lake city, UT
  5.9
fun climb! climbed this with j helms on Oct 17. weather was perfect, in the sun all day. 2 star sport climbing, 3 star last trad pitch (calcite reminiscent of castleton), and a 4 star view/summit. Base jumpers jumped off the top as we were roping up. Long approach! trail needs work, we scrambled quite a bit

oh, and most important beta of all, next person to climb this needs to haul up a water bottle full of whiskey to refill the flasks in the summit register! thanks for that guys. About 2 shots left Oct 19, 2013
J Helms
SLC
 
J Helms   SLC
 
Great climb. Bolts and anchors are all bomber. Awesome views throughout the climb and from the top.

The route is about 8.5 miles down 128 from the 191 junction. About 0.5 miles after you pass the big bend bouldering area, look for a pull-off on the left to park. The approach is a long scramble (expect ~45 minutes). Definitely worth the work, though. Oct 18, 2013
gregsmiller
Louisville
gregsmiller   Louisville
super fun climb and well protected. i would say the first two pitches are 5.6-5.7 and the last maybe 5.8 Easy to get down and amazing views, thanks for the hard work in putting this up! No need to take much gear for last pitch, single .3 to #2 camalot (?). Knocked off some remaining loose rock on way up, cleaning it up a little more. A must do for the grade, uniqueness and views! Sep 24, 2013
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
did it again yesterday, 5/26/13. great morning shade until almost 11:00 am. roger did a great job on the first two pitches; his first lead ever!!!!! i took the last pitch and placed much less gear this time. 1 tiny, double small blue, double small grey, then single camalots to a #2. one quick draw. i think it could be better to substitute medium stoppers for the double cams. theres a couple bomber stopper placements up there. also; optional 3, 3 1/2, or 4 could be placed to really sew it up. the route is cleaning up real nice and the trail there is looking good too. May 27, 2013
Skyler Penrod
  5.8+ PG13
Skyler Penrod  
  5.8+ PG13
Today was the first day I was able to make it back up this after we bolted the first pitch.

This is one of the more fun climbs I have done in the area. The climbing is engaging and stays a little heady with the run outs between bolts.

The 3rd pitch is the money pitch and with calcite build up climbs much like a quartzite/granite crack. The start of the 3rd pitch is run out on easy terrain to the first piece (anything from a .75 to a 1 BD) but then is run out to a bomber bolt. There is potential for a small piece in a very tiny pod about a body length above your last piece. I had a purple tcu and if you fiddled with around you could probably wiggle it in. A grey tcu or 000 C3 would definitely fit in the pod.

If you want you can sew up the rest of the pitch from the bolt to the top.

If you are in the area and looking for a cruiser with unbeatable views this is a must. Mar 18, 2013
Eric Odenthal
  5.9 PG13
Eric Odenthal  
  5.9 PG13
Fun route! Can not believe a route like this exists in Moab. Fun, spicy and with an insane view of all of the desert. A rim route for everyone. Wish there were more of these. Good job guys.

ended up linking the first two pitches with a 70 meter rope, skipped draws, had many double length runners. not recommended, but you can rap with one 70. 3 raps. Mar 13, 2013
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
mid may, went into the shade at 3:20. mid december, all day sun. warm. this thing is ABSOLUTELY STELLAR!!!!! some spice and a little run. it's the desert; careful of loose rock. put up, ground up, on sight, mostly free. stepped in sling once on pitch 2 and once on pitch 3, otherwise all clean on the fa. this route is dedicated to all the average joe climbers. it is our sincere wish that as many average joes and janes as possible enjoy this route. May 22, 2012