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Routes in Utopia
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Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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S=k log W T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Terma T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.65092, -109.49562 |
| FA: | Paul Bucher, Skyler Penrod , Taylor Bond |
| Page Views: | 8,952 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
P1
Face climb following bolt line passing rap station. Clip one more bolt to great spacious belay ledge with a bomber two-bolt belay station. 5.8, 11 bolts, 110 feet.
P2 Up, then left, pull a fun mantle, then back right to a huge belay ledge with a rap/belay station with 3 bomber bolts. Long draws on bolts #3, (optional long on bolt #4) and bolt #5 to reduce drag. 5.8, 8 bolts, 110 feet.
P3 Climb up following the crack line. Cut left into the corner take that to the top. Good tree on top and one belay bolt. Rap station is obvious on the way up, just below the lip of the summit. Standard rack, 5.9, 110 feet.
Photos
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