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Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft
FA: Paul Bucher, Kiersten Wilson, Taylor Bond
Page Views: 1,141 total · 17/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Feb 8, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

crux is pulling around and stepping up between bolt one and two. very well protected with bomber new bolts. anchors on top are 3 new bolts with chain. capstone rock quality is good to poor. as always, use caution and check anchors. small climb with a big fun rap. worth it for the rap and photo op with the tower, river and mountains all in the shot.

Location

about a 10 minute walk (up river) past spear of destiny. start in the notch. climb past 3 good bolts to the ridge line and easy ground to the top. anchors on top. hard to see from the road but obvious walking to it from spear of destiny.

Protection

three quickdraws

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