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Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Brandon W, Taylor Skokan, Paul Bucher
Page Views: 3,207 total, 48/month
Shared By: paul bucher on May 22, 2012 with updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb the big chimney between the tower and main wall with crazy body bridge and stem moves. Clean, classic, great fun. Crux seems to be at the last bolt leaving the wall and getting on to the tower. All day shade. Easy to top rope after you get a rope up. Comfortable belay. Must do tower and minimum gear is going to make this one a favorite.

Location

The approach trail takes you up under the giant roofs. The tower becomes obvious on your left the closer you get to the main wall.

Protection

Quickdraws, 8 bolts, 3-bomber-bolt anchor.
Question--Intro says this is trad, but Protection just says quickdraws. Hoping to get up to Utopia this next week--do I need gear for this climb? Oct 31, 2017
Izzy K.
Boulder, CO
 
Izzy K.   Boulder, CO
 
This was my first chimney climb on lead and it was AMAZING! I hyperventilated my way up, but it's fairly easy and very well protected. A must do if you've made the approach to this area. May 30, 2016
Brian Pappas
silverthorne CO
  5.9 PG13
Brian Pappas   silverthorne CO
  5.9 PG13
What an amazing route.Thanks for putting up. Apr 15, 2015
Finally got on this today. This is not my style and left me feeling slightly insecure in several spots, but I don't think this is any harder than 5.8. You could make it harder no problem, but I think that all the moves are there and it is really well protected. Definitely a route for someone trying to break into this style of climbing. Apr 8, 2014
gregsmiller
Louisville
gregsmiller   Louisville
exciting!! 5.7 G... not any harder than 2nd pitch of honeymooners chimney. You can chimney and stem the whole way... my partner who is 5'2 was able to do the same.. no body bridging needed. Look through the base of the summit block as you head to the anchor! Sep 24, 2013
Peter Blank
Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Peter Blank   Grand Junction, Colorado
 
Wow! The spear is amazing!
Thanks for all your contributions to the area guys. Apr 28, 2013
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
four friends climbed it 12/5/12 and all said 5.9. so, done deal, changed it to 5.9 Dec 9, 2012
Dana Prosser
Boulder
 
Dana Prosser   Boulder
 
A really unique route with a cool summit. We found the climbing to be a little unnerving because of the unique style (full body stemming). Felt more like 5.9 Oct 17, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
i just talked to some folks (down at super crack) who had done the route and felt it was harder than 5.8. they said 5.9+. they felt there should be more good holds for 5.8 and the body bridge moves were a bit much for 5.8 as well. Aug 12, 2012