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Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Skyler Penrod, Paul Bucher
Page Views: 1,034 total · 13/month
Shared By: Skyler Penrod on May 21, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Follow obvious splitter up the river facing side of the fallen block that Tjurunga climbs. Starts offwidth and slowly works its way to less than tips. There are many face holds that make this crack much easier than if you were to only climb the crack system itself.

Start in the offwidth with a flake and work your way up solid jams and brittle feet until you get into great fist jams that slowly work into hands. When the crack tightens down to tight hands you have to a short well protected traverse with okay holds and no feet. Look for the hidden holds in the pod and pull up to the finger crack. climb balancy moves until you get to the less than tips crack and can grab the arete on the left. There are several options at this point as to what way to go. Several more moves gains the anchor. If you want there is a hidden bolt on the back side of the capstone above the anchor that gains access to the summit cap.


Follow the slowly establishing trail up the talus and climb the obvious splitter on the fallen block that is just right of where the trail lets out. This route shares the same anchors as Tjurunga. If you look to your left you should see the Spear of Destiny.


I would recommend bringing (in tcu's): 1 purple, 1 blue, 3 yellow, 3 orange (.5 Camalot might be better). The rest of the rack would be at least 1 .75 BD, 2 #1BD, 2 or 3 #2BD, 2 #3BD (I would trade one for a #4 friend), 2 #4BD and 1 #5BD. The rack goes almost in order from big to small.


Skyler Penrod
Skyler Penrod  
Kudos to Paul for finding this area and having the will power to haul our butts up there. Double Kudos for the putting the time and effort into funding and installing the hardware. May 21, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.11- PG13
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.11- PG13
thanks sky and good job on the sharp end. felt like 10+ on the follow. i had a chance to work it a bit before hand so the 11- is probably going to be about right. fear not. easy to top rope by climbing tjurunga first. great classic splitter with crazy moves mixed in. the route takes the left crack system to the anchors. there is an escape right crack that takes you to the upper part of tjurunga. not to gear intensive since the crack goes from big to small so your typical desert rack is not needed. the mandatory splitter in the area. May 22, 2012
Dana Prosser
Dana Prosser   Boulder
Really fun crack that goes through all the sizes. Had that new route feel (aka breaking holds) Well protected throughout and an interesting lead! Oct 17, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.11- PG13
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.11- PG13
if dana did it free and clean the ffa goes to you as far as i know since we had a couple hangs and falls on the fa. Nov 6, 2012

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