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Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul and Sandy Bucher
Page Views: 1,047 total · 15/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start on left of spire. Tunnel behind and up chimney to large block. Tunnel under (serious drag)straight up nice cracks and steps up to summit anchors. I untied at block and threw my rope over it and retied then went up. Great fun, mini adventure. some evidence of human traffic to sub summit so not certain on f/a. We installed bomber 1/2 inch anchors. Rappel off front side with single 70.

Location

Small tower/spire right of Terma. Approach should bring you right to it or slightly to its left. Obvious feature. move up and left as the route tunnels behind. Single 70 to the deck and reverse approach to road.

Protection

Single set of camalots to a # .75 and/or a set of stoppers.

Photos

Loose rock, be careful. Only used 3 cams-#2, #1, &#.75. Great anchors. Oct 17, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
 
paul bucher   moab, utah
 
negative on the penny. rock pile on sub summit that did not look natural. happy to add or change info if any body has any. May 22, 2012
Evidence like a penny? Mar 18, 2012