Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul and Sandy Bucher
Page Views: 1,047 total · 15/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Start on left of spire. Tunnel behind and up chimney to large block. Tunnel under (serious drag)straight up nice cracks and steps up to summit anchors. I untied at block and threw my rope over it and retied then went up. Great fun, mini adventure. some evidence of human traffic to sub summit so not certain on f/a. We installed bomber 1/2 inch anchors. Rappel off front side with single 70.


Small tower/spire right of Terma. Approach should bring you right to it or slightly to its left. Obvious feature. move up and left as the route tunnels behind. Single 70 to the deck and reverse approach to road.


Single set of camalots to a # .75 and/or a set of stoppers.


Loose rock, be careful. Only used 3 cams-#2, #1, &#.75. Great anchors. Oct 17, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
negative on the penny. rock pile on sub summit that did not look natural. happy to add or change info if any body has any. May 22, 2012
Evidence like a penny? Mar 18, 2012