GPS: 38.652, -109.496 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,036 total · 151/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Great, sunny area with great views. No crowds. Moderate approach. Good rock quality with bolted face and trad climbs.

Spear of Destiny , S=k log W, The Notovitch Codex, Terma, Tjurunga, and Adam-Ondi-Ahman are all within about 50 yards of each other. Mid-May, Terma went into the shade at 3:20

Getting There

1/2 mile north (up river) from the Big Bend Bouldering Area. Good pull out parking on river side of road by speed limit signs. Start in wash, gain ridge on right and head straight up passing "hidden" bouldering area. 45 minutes with heavy load, kids or dog. 30 mins with light load.

7 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Utopia Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Utopia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 36
Terma
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 32
Spear of Destiny
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
Adam-Ondi-Ahman
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Terma
 36
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Spear of Destiny
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
Adam-Ondi-Ahman
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Utopia »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos