Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Page Views: 8,805 total · 124/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Great, sunny area with great views. No crowds. Moderate approach. Good rock quality with bolted face and trad climbs.

Spear of Destiny , S=k log W, The Notovitch Codex, Terma, Tjurunga, and Adam-Ondi-Ahman are all within about 50 yards of each other. Mid-May, Terma went into the shade at 3:20
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

1/2 mile north (up river) from the Big Bend Bouldering Area. Good pull out parking on river side of road by speed limit signs. Start in wash, gain ridge on right and head straight up passing "hidden" bouldering area. 45 minutes with heavy load, kids or dog. 30 mins with light load.

7 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Utopia Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Utopia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Adam-Ondi-Ahman
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Terma 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Spear of Destiny 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
Adam-Ondi-Ahman 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Utopia »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
formerly, wall above north big bend boulder; then, north big bend boulder wall. it was our intent from the beginning to establish a new location thru the name, and then, once word got out, change the name to something more fitting. WELCOME TO UTOPIA! Feb 28, 2013
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
skyler says a, b, c, d are much more south (downriver), more above big bend boulders. Sep 2, 2012
Even if they are the same towers, I dig your names better then Towers A,B,C,D. Jul 4, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
not sure. sounds similar. same general wall at least. nothing had any anchors we did. the one we called tjurunga had a small pile of rocks on a sub summit that could have been a carne at one time. not sure. could be one of those??? there are only two towers in "our" area that both climb the left sides. A, B, C, all climb the right. then theres D. these may be more south??? "our" area is just before the road bends hard right if your heading up river. the ramp of terma is obvious from the road. good evening area this time of year. if ya get up there let us know anything you find that would help in keeping the info clear and correct. thanks Jun 22, 2012
Where is this in relation to Towers A, B, C and D, listed on page 110 of Eric's Desert Rock III? Jun 11, 2012

More About Utopia

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Utopia (56)

Most Popular · Newest