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Utopia Rock Climbing
Routes in Utopia
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Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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S=k log W T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Terma T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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| GPS: |
38.65092, -109.49562 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 27,529 total · 158/month |
| Shared By: | paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Great, sunny area with great views. No crowds. Moderate approach. Good rock quality with bolted face and trad climbs.
Spear of Destiny , S=k log W, The Notovitch Codex, Terma, Tjurunga, and Adam-Ondi-Ahman are all within about 50 yards of each other. Mid-May, Terma went into the shade at 3:20
Getting There
1/2 mile north (up river) from the Big Bend Bouldering Area. Good pull out parking on river side of road by speed limit signs. Start in wash, gain ridge on right and head straight up passing "hidden" bouldering area. 45 minutes with heavy load, kids or dog. 30 mins with light load.
Classic Climbing Routes at Utopia
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Sun Angles Details:
Routes Mostly Face: Southwest
Sunny Roughly 10am to 5pm
during high season
6am
8pm
Weather Averages
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