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Utopia Rock Climbing

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Routes in Utopia

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	Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	S=k log W T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Terma T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

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GPS:	38.64685, -109.49375 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	26,596 total · 198/month
Shared By:	paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Great, sunny area with great views. No crowds. Moderate approach. Good rock quality with bolted face and trad climbs.

Spear of Destiny , S=k log W, The Notovitch Codex, Terma, Tjurunga, and Adam-Ondi-Ahman are all within about 50 yards of each other. Mid-May, Terma went into the shade at 3:20

Getting There

1/2 mile north (up river) from the Big Bend Bouldering Area. Good pull out parking on river side of road by speed limit signs. Start in wash, gain ridge on right and head straight up passing "hidden" bouldering area. 45 minutes with heavy load, kids or dog. 30 mins with light load.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Utopia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 57 ● Terma Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 57 ● Spear of Destiny Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 10 ● Adam-Ondi-Ahman Trad