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Climbing Area Map
This is our best guess at this area's location.
Fix Location
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Routes in Utopia
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Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Terma T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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| GPS: | 38.652, -109.496 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 11,192 total · 133/month |
| Shared By: | paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
Great, sunny area with great views. No crowds. Moderate approach. Good rock quality with bolted face and trad climbs.
Spear of Destiny , S=k log W, The Notovitch Codex, Terma, Tjurunga, and Adam-Ondi-Ahman are all within about 50 yards of each other. Mid-May, Terma went into the shade at 3:20
Spear of Destiny , S=k log W, The Notovitch Codex, Terma, Tjurunga, and Adam-Ondi-Ahman are all within about 50 yards of each other. Mid-May, Terma went into the shade at 3:20
Getting There
1/2 mile north (up river) from the Big Bend Bouldering Area. Good pull out parking on river side of road by speed limit signs. Start in wash, gain ridge on right and head straight up passing "hidden" bouldering area. 45 minutes with heavy load, kids or dog. 30 mins with light load.
Classic Climbing Routes at Utopia
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
7 Comments
More About Utopia
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Guidebooks (9)
moab, utah
moab, utah
moab, utah
Also some trail beta as of 5/5/18. The trail looks good but we had a hard time finding it on the way up. Took the wrong wash. The trail starts in the small, barely a wash, about 15 feet behind the speed limit sign. Not the wash that feeds into the culvert under the road. Its well cairned just out of the wash. Hope this helps protect the desert a bit.
Happy climbing! May 6, 2018