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Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
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GPS: 38.628, -109.497 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 9,860 total · 127/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Mar 13, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Great, sunny area with great views. No crowds. Moderate approach. Good rock quality with bolted face and trad climbs.

Spear of Destiny , S=k log W, The Notovitch Codex, Terma, Tjurunga, and Adam-Ondi-Ahman are all within about 50 yards of each other. Mid-May, Terma went into the shade at 3:20

Getting There

1/2 mile north (up river) from the Big Bend Bouldering Area. Good pull out parking on river side of road by speed limit signs. Start in wash, gain ridge on right and head straight up passing "hidden" bouldering area. 45 minutes with heavy load, kids or dog. 30 mins with light load.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Utopia

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Spear of Destiny
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
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Where is this in relation to Towers A, B, C and D, listed on page 110 of Eric's Desert Rock III? Jun 11, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
not sure. sounds similar. same general wall at least. nothing had any anchors we did. the one we called tjurunga had a small pile of rocks on a sub summit that could have been a carne at one time. not sure. could be one of those??? there are only two towers in "our" area that both climb the left sides. A, B, C, all climb the right. then theres D. these may be more south??? "our" area is just before the road bends hard right if your heading up river. the ramp of terma is obvious from the road. good evening area this time of year. if ya get up there let us know anything you find that would help in keeping the info clear and correct. thanks Jun 22, 2012
Even if they are the same towers, I dig your names better then Towers A,B,C,D. Jul 4, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
skyler says a, b, c, d are much more south (downriver), more above big bend boulders. Sep 2, 2012
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
formerly, wall above north big bend boulder; then, north big bend boulder wall. it was our intent from the beginning to establish a new location thru the name, and then, once word got out, change the name to something more fitting. WELCOME TO UTOPIA! Feb 28, 2013
Great area with some unique stuff for the desert. The rock quality is questionable in places. I wouldn't recommend putting 100% faith into any single hold. Just something to be aware of.
Also some trail beta as of 5/5/18. The trail looks good but we had a hard time finding it on the way up. Took the wrong wash. The trail starts in the small, barely a wash, about 15 feet behind the speed limit sign. Not the wash that feeds into the culvert under the road. Its well cairned just out of the wash. Hope this helps protect the desert a bit.
Happy climbing! May 6, 2018
Approach tip (to follow up on Taylor's post): Start up the (tiny) wash that is just 20 ft. up-canyon of the speed limit signs. After just 100 yards or so, cairns lead up out of the wash through a talus field and up right onto a flat ridge. The trail itself is typically not obvious, BUT there are lots of cairns (as of May '18). This trail spits you out just to the climber's left of Adam-Ondi-Ahman. May 6, 2018

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