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Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: paul bucher & taylor bond
Page Views: 1,020 total, 17/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Feb 28, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

climb up the clean splitter that leads you up and right into a dirt band (thats not really that dirty), mantle up and left and head behind a big chock stone, then up to the anchor. fun route. pros up well. as with all newer routes, be aware of the possibility of loose rock.

Location

15 feet left of the big obvious ramp that is terma. starts up a nice splitter to bomber anchors that can be easily seen from the ground.

Protection

single desert rack. optional stoppers or hexes. bomber new two bolt anchor with 1/2 x 3 and 3/4 inch bolts and ring.

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