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Routes in Utopia
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Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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S=k log W T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Terma T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.65092, -109.49562 |
| FA: | Paul bucher & taylor bond |
| Page Views: | 1,714 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | paul bucher on Feb 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
nice route. way better than it looks. starts up a somewhat broken up looking crack, over a slight bulge to a dirty ledge. go thru or around the ledge then into a stellar splitter in a right facing corner to a chimney with a nice thin crack for pro. great anchors and ledge to belay from. really good route but be cautious of loose rock. it is possible to climb the notovitch codex to the ledge and traverse over to S=k log W from there, avoiding the lower section.
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