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Routes in Utopia

Adam-Ondi-Ahman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Notovitch Codex, The T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Qebehsenuef T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
S=k log W T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Spear of Destiny S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Terma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tjurunga T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Paul bucher & taylor bond
Page Views: 652 total, 11/month
Shared By: paul bucher on Feb 28, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

nice route. way better than it looks. starts up a somewhat broken up looking crack, over a slight bulge to a dirty ledge. go thru or around the ledge then into a stellar splitter in a right facing corner to a chimney with a nice thin crack for pro. great anchors and ledge to belay from. really good route but be cautious of loose rock. it is possible to climb the notovitch codex to the ledge and traverse over to S=k log W from there, avoiding the lower section.

Location

30 feet left of the big obvious ramp that is terma. 15 feet left of the notovitch codex. anchors visible from the ground.

Protection

standard desert rack with extra 3 and 4 camalots.

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