Elevation: 4,023 ft
GPS: 38.65078, -109.48395
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 362,308 total · 1,436/month
Shared By: ben jammin on May 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

The Word

When it comes to quality and quantity, in such a small area, it's hard to beat Big Bend. Add the convenience of beautiful riverside camping, zero approach and a dizzying array of other things to do (I hear there's crack climbing), you'll be missing out if you skip over Moab on your next road trip. The best season is October through March but bouldering can be had year round. Be cautioned, however, summers in the desert can be as hot as sin and although winters are generally mild, you'll want to check the forecast as storms do roll through. If you find yourself freezing in Joe's Valley odds are good it will be sunny with crisp temps at Big Bend.

The climbing is generally skin friendly, with great landings and with a few notable exceptions aren't toooo highball. You can certainly have a great time on your own with a single pad. With grades from V0 to V-hard there is truly something for everyone. With that, no Big Bend description is complete without mentioning the grades. Big Bend was established by legends such as John Sherman, Dan Osman and Tom Gilge with local hardmen Noah Bigwood and Eric Decaria putting up some of the hardest test pieces. Raised in a strict local ethic you won't be seeing many of these problems being downgraded, to say the least. This is best exemplified by Circus Trick, probably the hardest V4 on the planet. I have seen many a hardmen and women reduced to tears (literally!) on this stout area test piece. Many of the area's V0's and V1's will feel hard for the grade.

The rock is Wingate Sandstone which can and will break. DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE! Sandstone is very porous and will break much easier when wet. Please allow at least 24 hours to dry and the general rule of thumb is if the ground is wet, the rock is wet. Also, if exploring for new boulders please be careful not to step on Cryptobiotic Soil; don't bust the crust yo!

Please be respectful of the desert.

Getting There

Heading North out of Moab take Hwy 128 just before you hit the Colorado River. Follow 'River Road' 8.1 miles to a pull off on the right after the Big Bend Campground. It's hard to miss these boulders as they are about 20 feet from the road and an abundance of chalk can easily be seen as you drive past.

93 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Bend Bouldering Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 232
Leftover Lover
Boulder
V1 5
 184
Center Start
Boulder
V1 5
 78
Pancake Mantle
Boulder
V1+ 5
 80
Split Decision
Boulder
V2 5+
 183
Slots of Fun
Boulder
V2 5+
 66
Sand Traverse
Boulder
V2 5+
 128
Hueco Cranks
Boulder
V2 5+
 65
Washing Machine
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 117
Mr. Trujillo's Big Day
Boulder
V3 6A
 69
Center Direct
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 79
Silly Wabbit
Boulder
V4 6B
 93
Brown Power
Boulder
V4 6B
 83
Washed Up
Boulder
V5 6C
 109
Block Party
Boulder
V6 7A
 99
Circus Trick
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Leftover Lover Flat Top Boulder
 232
V0 4 Boulder
Center Start Black Box
 184
V1 5 Boulder
Pancake Mantle Sand Traverse Boulder…
 78
V1 5 Boulder
Split Decision Split Decision
 80
V1+ 5 Boulder
Slots of Fun Black Box
 183
V2 5+ Boulder
Sand Traverse Sand Traverse Boulder…
 66
V2 5+ Boulder
Hueco Cranks Hueco Traverse Boulder
 128
V2 5+ Boulder
Washing Machine Wash Boulder
 65
V2 5+ Boulder
Mr. Trujillo's Big Day Flat Top Boulder
 117
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Center Direct Black Box
 69
V3 6A Boulder
Silly Wabbit Flat Top Boulder
 79
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Brown Power Block Top Boulder
 93
V4 6B Boulder
Washed Up Wash Boulder
 83
V4 6B Boulder
Block Party Block Top Boulder
 109
V5 6C Boulder
Circus Trick Chaos Boulder
 99
V6 7A Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Big Bend Bouldering Area »

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