Elevation: 4,023 ft
GPS: 38.651, -109.484 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 191,922 total · 931/month
Shared By: ben jammin on May 12, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

The Word

When it comes to quality and quantity, in such a small area, it's hard to beat Big Bend. Add the convenience of beautiful riverside camping, zero approach and a dizzying array of other things to do (I hear there's crack climbing), you'll be missing out if you skip over Moab on your next road trip. The best season is October through March but bouldering can be had year round. Be cautioned, however, summers in the desert can be as hot as sin and although winters are generally mild, you'll want to check the forecast as storms do roll through. If you find yourself freezing in Joe's Valley odds are good it will be sunny with crisp temps at Big Bend.

The climbing is generally skin friendly, with great landings and with a few notable exceptions aren't toooo highball. You can certainly have a great time on your own with a single pad. With grades from V0 to V-hard there is truly something for everyone. With that, no Big Bend description is complete without mentioning the grades. Big Bend was established by legends such as John Sherman, Dan Osman and Tom Gilge with local hardmen Noah Bigwood and Eric Decaria putting up some of the hardest test pieces. Raised in a strict local ethic you won't be seeing many of these problems being downgraded, to say the least. This is best exemplified by Circus Trick, probably the hardest V4 on the planet. I have seen many a hardmen and women reduced to tears (literally!) on this stout area test piece. Many of the area's V0's and V1's will feel hard for the grade.

The rock is Wingate Sandstone which can and will break. DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE! Sandstone is very porous and will break much easier when wet. Please allow at least 24 hours to dry and the general rule of thumb is if the ground is wet, the rock is wet. Also, if exploring for new boulders please be careful not to step on Cryptobiotic Soil; don't bust the crust yo!

Please be respectful of the desert.

Getting There

Heading North out of Moab take Hwy 128 just before you hit the Colorado River. Follow 'River Road' 8.1 miles to a pull off on the right after the Big Bend Campground. It's hard to miss these boulders as they are about 20 feet from the road and an abundance of chalk can easily be seen as you drive past.

82 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Bend Bouldering Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
 151
Leftover Lover
Boulder
V1 5
 130
Center Start
Boulder
V1+ 5
 45
Split Decision
Boulder
V2 5+
 132
Slots of Fun
Boulder
V2 5+
 65
Hueco Cranks
Boulder
V2 5+
 32
No Name
Boulder
V2+ 5+
 68
Mr. Trujillo's Big Day
Boulder
V3 6A
 28
Arete Left Side
Boulder
V3 6A
 47
Arete Right Side
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 49
Silly Wabbit
Boulder
V4 6B
 49
Brown Power
Boulder
V4 6B
 46
Washed Up
Boulder
V5 6C
 53
Block Party
Boulder
V5+ 6C+
 65
Circus Trick
Boulder
V8 7B
 13
Chaos
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Leftover Lover Flat Top Boulder
 151
V0 4 Boulder
Center Start Black Box
 130
V1 5 Boulder
Split Decision Split Decision
 45
V1+ 5 Boulder
Slots of Fun Black Box
 132
V2 5+ Boulder
Hueco Cranks Hueco Traverse Boulder
 65
V2 5+ Boulder
No Name Wash Boulder
 32
V2 5+ Boulder
Mr. Trujillo's Big Day Flat Top Boulder
 68
V2+ 5+ Boulder
Arete Left Side Black Box
 28
V3 6A Boulder
Arete Right Side Black Box
 47
V3 6A Boulder
Silly Wabbit Flat Top Boulder
 49
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Brown Power Block Top Boulder
 49
V4 6B Boulder
Washed Up Wash Boulder
 46
V4 6B Boulder
Block Party Block Top Boulder
 53
V5 6C Boulder
Circus Trick Chaos Boulder
 65
V5+ 6C+ Boulder
Chaos Chaos Boulder
 13
V8 7B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Big Bend Bouldering Area »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
This area is fun. One time I came to Moab and spent an entire week in this area alone. There's a silly chimney traverse thing, a couple of crack deals, and a bunch of huecos! I still can't stick that last dyno on Circus Trick... The lonely boulder (a quarter mile down the road towards Moab and back down a short truck trail) has some super-sweet problems on it. Jun 7, 2002
Anybody know about the hard problems at Big Bend? I think Phantom Fighter-sit is the Klem problem just to the right of circus trick. But where is Hell Belly? Any other hard problems? Moab has a ton of undeveloped hard problems-anyone have recomendations for stuff off the beaten path? Nov 9, 2002
Just to the left of Chaos(V8), is a steep pinch problem with terrible heel scums(V11). Mar 18, 2003
This is the best place to boulder in the world! What an idillic setting, and the quantity of problems is remarkable! Even the sandstone is solid!! I spent an entire afternoon here and that wasn't even enough time to scratch the surface. Mar 11, 2006
EricW
Sandy, Ut
EricW   Sandy, Ut
This place is great for a few days. Tent camping is a across the street. Lots of parking here as well. I think the problems are hard for the grade.Zero approach! Gets sun all day. Feb 27, 2008
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Big thanks to all the people that have been stepping up lately, and adding lots more problems to the database. I've been trying to do my part as well. This place deserves some love! Dec 14, 2012
Josh Cameron
M.O.A.B.
Josh Cameron   M.O.A.B.
I was here April 3rd and found route names and faux petroglyphs written in chalk all over The Punisher Boulder. Cleaned it up best I could with water. Please respect the rock. Apr 7, 2015
Where can I find a guidebook for this area? Jun 10, 2015
Found some rings while bouldering here on Oct 1st. Hit me up with a description and I will get them in the mail to you! Oct 6, 2016
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
The Big Bend boulders are in Karl Kelley's guidebook, High on Moab. Dec 7, 2016
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Any place next to a road is popular with boulderers. Aug 21, 2018
Aaron S  
Today, 3/24/19, a group of 5 people were climbing on the sandstone not even 12 hours after it rained. Not only was the ground wet, but the asphalt was wet as well! When I suggested to them they shouldn’t be climbing on wet sandstone, they started to get defensive and aggressive. Eventually it led to one guy threatening me physically, saying that he was in prison for 10 years and wasn’t afraid to go back. They continued to say they will continue climbing just to spite me and the other locals. (I’m not a local) It is sad that climbing has reached this demographic of people who not only clearly don’t care about the rock, but have no sense of ethics or morals. Btw. The first right hand on Circus Tricks is now broken, because of people like this. Please, don’t leave your commentary to social media, if you see someone climbing on wet stone, say something! Mar 24, 2019