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Routes in Major Wall

Banana Peel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananas on Acid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bat out of Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bon Bon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buttress Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cactus Practice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Blueberry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chris's Route (name will change) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Demon, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Plaything S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hurt Me Not S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juckets & Bugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberace's Anus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Limp Traddy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Major Chingadera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Major Major S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Raspberry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Milo Mindblender S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pimp Caddy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pimp Daddy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pinche Wey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prickly Proctologist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Can Bolt S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff
Page Views: 815 total, 12/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Feb 26, 2012
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Filling in the obvious blank section between the Demon and Major Raspberry.

Amble up the juggy scoops to the third bolt. Get comfortable in the highest scoop for a quick rest. Once you leave the scoop a hard and footwork dependent boulder problem takes you up to the angling arete above and the 4th bolt. From here you could mantle over right and finish at the mid anchor on Major Raspberry or better, continue up the angling arete past another bolt and finish at the Demon anchor.

Location

Starts on obvious large jugs and huecos just up from the end of the ramp on the left half of the wall.

Between the Demon and Major Raspberry.

Protection

5 new bolts plus the last one on the Demon to the chain anchor of that route.

Photos

KJP
Albuquerque, NM
  5.13a/b
KJP   Albuquerque, NM
  5.13a/b
Fun route, just a bit harder then The Demon, but not quite as good. 2 bolts of 5.9 to a 6 or 7 move low percentage v7ish boulder to more easy terrain to the top. Nov 4, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Really not sure of the grade on this, the nature of the climbing is hard to grade. Pretty sure it is in the .13 range but it could be anything really, from A to D, well probably not the upper end.

Would like for others to get on it and let me know what they think. Feb 26, 2012