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Routes in Major Wall

Banana Peel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananas on Acid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bat out of Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bon Bon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buttress Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cactus Practice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Blueberry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chris's Route (name will change) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Demon, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Plaything S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hurt Me Not S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juckets & Bugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberace's Anus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Limp Traddy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Major Chingadera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Major Major S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Raspberry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Milo Mindblender S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pimp Caddy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pimp Daddy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pinche Wey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prickly Proctologist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Can Bolt S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Johnny Myrick, Matt Samet
Page Views: 1,064 total · 10/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Feb 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Scramble up into a scoop on the left side of the prow. Clip the first bolt and make a big move off of a great jug up into some pockets and the second bolt. At the third bolt, cruxy moves on the very blunt arete lead to big move back left to a loose looking flake and the fourth bolt. A couple of gastons lead to a razor blade straight up off of the flake and the shared anchor on the right with Banana Peel.

  • The guide books have always said "for a true ascent, avoid the jugs on the right at the 3rd and 4th bolts", I'm not really sure what they are talking about unless they mean, don't climb Banana Peel and clip these bolts? I guess I was pretty close to the flake system of Banana Peel but it faces away from you and you don't really see it.

Location

Left of Banana Peel. Just right of the low point of the wall directly above a half dead but quite tall cactus.

Protection

4 bolts and a chain anchor shared with Banana Peel.

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Definitely seemed a bit harder than Hurt Me Not. Feb 15, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12a
I agree that this feels harder than Hurt Me Not, the crux of this always feels hard to me. Dec 7, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Well, if this is harder than Hurt Me Not, how is it that people say that Hurt Me is 5.12a or even a/b while this is 5.12a or even 5.11d? Certainly they could be the same grade with one beinging harder than the other but to have them completely switched? Could it be because the Hurt Me Not grade got extra credit at one point because you had to place some gear?, which you don't have to do any more. Dec 7, 2009
Wa3lt  
This was the first 5.12 I ever climbed, and I onsighted it somehow. I recall it seeming pretty easy, with the exception of some flash-pump and some sequence misreading that resulting in me *high stepping on my own fingers* to get the send. Yeah, very stupid.

I would say (based on 15 year old recollection) that it's soft for 12a. But my memory of this climb is pretty limited to the ghosts of horrible finger pain. So who knows. Jan 28, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
The amazingly cordinated and graceful Wa3lt will now perform his sick highstep and squeal in pain move for everyone to learn from. Seriously, Ugh, OUCH. Jan 29, 2010
emmet  
FA: Johnny Myrick, Matt Samet Oct 23, 2010

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