Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Johnny Myrick, Matt Samet
Page Views: 1,121 total · 9/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Feb 15, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

Scramble up into a scoop on the left side of the prow. Clip the first bolt and make a big move off of a great jug up into some pockets and the second bolt. At the third bolt, cruxy moves on the very blunt arete lead to big move back left to a loose looking flake and the fourth bolt. A couple of gastons lead to a razor blade straight up off of the flake and the shared anchor on the right with Banana Peel.

  • The guide books have always said "for a true ascent, avoid the jugs on the right at the 3rd and 4th bolts", I'm not really sure what they are talking about unless they mean, don't climb Banana Peel and clip these bolts? I guess I was pretty close to the flake system of Banana Peel but it faces away from you and you don't really see it.

Location

Left of Banana Peel. Just right of the low point of the wall directly above a half dead but quite tall cactus.

Protection

4 bolts and a chain anchor shared with Banana Peel.

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12a
Definitely seemed a bit harder than Hurt Me Not. Feb 15, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.12a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.12a
I agree that this feels harder than Hurt Me Not, the crux of this always feels hard to me. Dec 7, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12a
Well, if this is harder than Hurt Me Not, how is it that people say that Hurt Me is 5.12a or even a/b while this is 5.12a or even 5.11d? Certainly they could be the same grade with one beinging harder than the other but to have them completely switched? Could it be because the Hurt Me Not grade got extra credit at one point because you had to place some gear?, which you don't have to do any more. Dec 7, 2009
Wa3lt  
This was the first 5.12 I ever climbed, and I onsighted it somehow. I recall it seeming pretty easy, with the exception of some flash-pump and some sequence misreading that resulting in me *high stepping on my own fingers* to get the send. Yeah, very stupid.

I would say (based on 15 year old recollection) that it's soft for 12a. But my memory of this climb is pretty limited to the ghosts of horrible finger pain. So who knows. Jan 28, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12a
The amazingly cordinated and graceful Wa3lt will now perform his sick highstep and squeal in pain move for everyone to learn from. Seriously, Ugh, OUCH. Jan 29, 2010
emmet  
FA: Johnny Myrick, Matt Samet Oct 23, 2010