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Routes in Major Wall

Banana Peel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananas on Acid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bat out of Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bon Bon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buttress Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cactus Practice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Blueberry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chris's Route (name will change) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Demon, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Plaything S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hurt Me Not S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juckets & Bugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberace's Anus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Limp Traddy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Major Chingadera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Major Major S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Raspberry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Milo Mindblender S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pimp Caddy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pimp Daddy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pinche Wey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prickly Proctologist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Can Bolt S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 861 total, 6/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Right of Captain blueberry, look for a corner system to the left of the large ramp (the climb, The Ramp) in the middle of a dihedral formation. The climb is to the left of that. Crux is at the bottom and the route gets easier after that.

Protection

Bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

Andrew B. Ellis
  5.10b
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.10b
This is currently bolted in a way that is pretty safe - have an attentive belay for first two closely spaced bolts. (as you should always have)
Surprisingly good movement, and definitely worth at least two stars. Wanders a bit, but is good fun! Feels 10b to me. I wanted to give it 2.5 stars, but figured 3 would balance out the ratings from when this was bolted sparingly. Aug 7, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
The proper, original route may have been 2 bolts + gear, but if you don't have gear it's not unreasonable to finish on either climb to the left or the right at the top now. [edit: it sounds like it's been fully retrobolted recently- but I haven't been back] Nov 13, 2016
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Jackson's guide describes this route as just left of Liberace's anus with 2 bolts and a long run out to the liberace anchors. Well, we did this, and it was fairly run out down below with decking potential. The moves were decent but not super good. Pro up top is fine to finish the route. Nov 7, 2011