Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 914 total · 6/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Right of Captain blueberry, look for a corner system to the left of the large ramp (the climb, The Ramp) in the middle of a dihedral formation. The climb is to the left of that. Crux is at the bottom and the route gets easier after that.

Protection

Bolts to chain anchors.

Photos

kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
  5.10a PG13
Jackson's guide describes this route as just left of Liberace's anus with 2 bolts and a long run out to the liberace anchors. Well, we did this, and it was fairly run out down below with decking potential. The moves were decent but not super good. Pro up top is fine to finish the route. Nov 7, 2011
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
The proper, original route may have been 2 bolts + gear, but if you don't have gear it's not unreasonable to finish on either climb to the left or the right at the top now. [edit: it sounds like it's been fully retrobolted recently- but I haven't been back] Nov 13, 2016
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
  5.10b
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
  5.10b
This is currently bolted in a way that is pretty safe - have an attentive belay for first two closely spaced bolts. (as you should always have)
Surprisingly good movement, and definitely worth at least two stars. Wanders a bit, but is good fun! Feels 10b to me. I wanted to give it 2.5 stars, but figured 3 would balance out the ratings from when this was bolted sparingly. Aug 7, 2017