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Routes in Major Wall

Banana Peel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananas on Acid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bat out of Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bon Bon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buttress Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cactus Practice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Blueberry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chris's Route (name will change) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Demon, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Plaything S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hurt Me Not S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juckets & Bugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberace's Anus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Limp Traddy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Major Chingadera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Major Major S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Raspberry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Milo Mindblender S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pimp Caddy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pimp Daddy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pinche Wey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prickly Proctologist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Can Bolt S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bertrand Gramont
Page Views: 1,230 total · 10/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This route has been recently retroed for your sport climbing pleasure. The first and fourth bolt are new.

After Scrambling into a large Hueco clip the first bolt and pull a small roof. Head up on moderate terrain passing the second and third bolt to the somewhat mystifying crux. Negotiate this and latch the large flake jug (at one time you had to place pro behind this). Clip one more bolt and continue to the anchors on more moderate but thought provoking terrain.

This route is normally referred to as 12a/b, but felt easier. Perhaps the extra notch in difficulty was for the pro needed at the bottom and top of the route.

Location

Towards the right side of Major wall, Between "Banana Peel" and the dihedral all gear crack "Bon Bon".

Protection

4 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

- No Photos -
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
The FA, as listed in the old book, is "Gramont ?". He died in 1998. Dec 17, 2016
No more runout on HMN. Somebody added a bolt to the top, which IMO takes most of the fun out of this route. I don't want to start the ubiquitous debate over adding bolts (see Against All Cobbs, etc.) but here are some generally accepted guidelines that someone planning to modify a route should keep in mind: 1. Make an effort to get permission from the original FA (if you need help identifying this person beyond the MP info, get in touch with Bob Broilo), especially if you plan on changing the flavor of the route dramatically. In this case I'm not sure it matters because this was originally even more of a screamer and has slowly been gym-rat-ified over time. 2. Are the mods necessary from a safety standpoint? In this case, probably not. It's a long fall from the top, but it's clean and the moves are easy. 3. Paint the hardware to match the rock. There's a lot more info on retro-bolting ethics online so if you're interested in retro-bolting be sure to get familiar with this info. The last thing I'll say, while I'm on this soap box, is that some people argue that if you don't like having a bolt in a particular place then don't clip it, but it's the fact that in my mind I know it's there and I could clip it if I needed to that takes the excitement out of the situation. There's a big difference between skipping a bolt and not having one that changes the feel of a route whether you clip or not. Dec 17, 2016
skelldify  
 
Beware the significant runout to the anchors. Makes for an exciting, but very do-able redpoint. Jun 2, 2015
Mateo San Pedro
OR
  5.11d
Mateo San Pedro   OR
  5.11d
So this climb was fun. But got on it thinking it was an 11+ and was surprised to find it to be a 12a in books and on here. 11d I think. I could see it being a 12 maybe if you had to place the pro but even then you would be placing it on a jug, no? Either way, fun climb! Nov 14, 2012
I agree with DTP. Worth doing for the short interesting crux. Jan 2, 2009

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