Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Bertrand Gramont
Page Views: 1,286 total · 10/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Feb 4, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

This route has been recently retroed for your sport climbing pleasure. The first and fourth bolt are new.

After Scrambling into a large Hueco clip the first bolt and pull a small roof. Head up on moderate terrain passing the second and third bolt to the somewhat mystifying crux. Negotiate this and latch the large flake jug (at one time you had to place pro behind this). Clip one more bolt and continue to the anchors on more moderate but thought provoking terrain.

This route is normally referred to as 12a/b, but felt easier. Perhaps the extra notch in difficulty was for the pro needed at the bottom and top of the route.

Location

Towards the right side of Major wall, Between "Banana Peel" and the dihedral all gear crack "Bon Bon".

Protection

4 Bolts to Anchors

Photos

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I agree with DTP. Worth doing for the short interesting crux. Jan 2, 2009
Mateo San Pedro
OR
  5.11d
Mateo San Pedro   OR
  5.11d
So this climb was fun. But got on it thinking it was an 11+ and was surprised to find it to be a 12a in books and on here. 11d I think. I could see it being a 12 maybe if you had to place the pro but even then you would be placing it on a jug, no? Either way, fun climb! Nov 14, 2012
skelldify  
 
Beware the significant runout to the anchors. Makes for an exciting, but very do-able redpoint. Jun 2, 2015
No more runout on HMN. Somebody added a bolt to the top, which IMO takes most of the fun out of this route. I don't want to start the ubiquitous debate over adding bolts (see Against All Cobbs, etc.) but here are some generally accepted guidelines that someone planning to modify a route should keep in mind: 1. Make an effort to get permission from the original FA (if you need help identifying this person beyond the MP info, get in touch with Bob Broilo), especially if you plan on changing the flavor of the route dramatically. In this case I'm not sure it matters because this was originally even more of a screamer and has slowly been gym-rat-ified over time. 2. Are the mods necessary from a safety standpoint? In this case, probably not. It's a long fall from the top, but it's clean and the moves are easy. 3. Paint the hardware to match the rock. There's a lot more info on retro-bolting ethics online so if you're interested in retro-bolting be sure to get familiar with this info. The last thing I'll say, while I'm on this soap box, is that some people argue that if you don't like having a bolt in a particular place then don't clip it, but it's the fact that in my mind I know it's there and I could clip it if I needed to that takes the excitement out of the situation. There's a big difference between skipping a bolt and not having one that changes the feel of a route whether you clip or not. Dec 17, 2016
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12a
The FA, as listed in the old book, is "Gramont ?". He died in 1998. Dec 17, 2016