Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Scott Roberts
Page Views: 572 total · 6/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 10, 2011
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Start up the left side of major wall on jugs through the first two bolts. After the second bolt make a tricky move to get established in the scoop. Clip the third bolt and start on the engaging run-out to the anchors. The anchors aren't visible until you are almost to them, but they are directly above the third bolt.

Some guides mention the old obscure route "Chingadera" starting in this area and taking a hard right after the second bolt and sharing the finish with "Pinche Verga".

Location

Furthest route left on Major Wall.

Protection

3 Bolts to Anchors. There is one manky bolt above the third as well if you want to clip something else, but isn't necessary.

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Scott Roberts
socorro, nm
Scott Roberts   socorro, nm
i also put up this route at the same time. i think i called it major chingadera. i thought it was around .10aish. i have been contemplating if i need to put another bolt at the top...any suggestions? Oct 26, 2011
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.10a
Thanks Scott, It seems like this would be pretty spicy for a 10- leader, but then again most of the easier routes on major wall are pretty spicy for a beginning leader. Oct 26, 2011
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
  5.10b/c PG13
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
  5.10b/c PG13
This short route climbed much better than I expected to, and I would come back to it for the cool mantle move at the bottom. Plus, the rock is great quality.

It may have been that I was tired after a long day at the end of a long week of climbing, but this felt significantly harder than 10a to me. I gave it 10c? *shrug*

I do think that the high consequence run out at the top keeps a lot of people off of this climb, and probably results in the low star rating. Especially since it is still techy movement.

Scott, I would be willing to add another bolt and remove that old manky one that is immediately above the last decent one if you are ok with it? Let me know and thanks for putting this up. Jan 16, 2019
Scott Roberts
socorro, nm
Scott Roberts   socorro, nm
I’ll put in another bolt. Jan 22, 2019
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
  5.10b/c PG13
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
  5.10b/c PG13
Sweet, I will kick you some cash for hardware next time I see you. Feb 7, 2019