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Routes in Major Wall

Banana Peel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananas on Acid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bat out of Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bon Bon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buttress Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cactus Practice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Blueberry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chris's Route (name will change) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Demon, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Plaything S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hurt Me Not S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juckets & Bugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberace's Anus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Limp Traddy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Major Chingadera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Major Major S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Raspberry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Milo Mindblender S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pimp Caddy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pimp Daddy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pinche Wey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prickly Proctologist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Can Bolt S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Scott Roberts 2010
Page Views: 512 total, 7/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 10, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the left side of major wall on a small ledge. The crux comes right of the ground in getting to the first bolt (Stickclip recommended). There is alot of chalk on various holds, so there are probably many ways of doing the start, but it felt like a V5 or V6 boulder problem to me. After the boulder start get a good rest and pull the second crux a significantly easier short boulder problem. Afterwards it is steep but large holds make it easy to the finish.

Location

On the far left side of major wall. Look for the shiny new bolts. This is the second route from the left.

Protection

5 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip. There are two additional manky bolts up high on this route. The are positioned close enough to the other bolts that clipping them doesn't gain much.

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Scott Roberts
socorro, nm
Scott Roberts   socorro, nm
as for the rating...if only about three people have done it...i am happy with .12c, .13a, or .10d. but it is a really fun route on good stone, so everyone should climb it. and if it ends up at .13a, creating more traffic...rad...i put the silly thing up to be climbed. Nov 16, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
You mean, like 5.10d... Oct 27, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
If only there were a grade between 12c and 13a ;) Oct 26, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Which is of course what V7 would be closest to, though if it is v5, .12c would be better. Oct 26, 2011
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Agreed, the start is tough and took me a few tries to figure out. If I put it on here as 13a it will see 5 times the traffic, but I'll leave it 12c for now... Oct 26, 2011
Scott Roberts
socorro, nm
Scott Roberts   socorro, nm
gosh, its kinda hard to say. its a two move wonder...maybe a v7 boulder problem at the start...i thought a touch harder, but .12c sounds good to me. Oct 26, 2011
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
Thanks Scott, I updated the description. What did you think for the grade, was I anywhere close with 12c?

Mike Oct 21, 2011
Scott Roberts
socorro, nm
Scott Roberts   socorro, nm
so i put this thing up last year, and it was pretty obvious that the lower section had not been climbed. it was full of the real flaky surface choss. i called it pinche wey. although i have not been able to find anyone who has actually done pinche verge, i think it is supposed to go up the crack to the left, and finish on the same. Oct 21, 2011