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Routes in Major Wall

Banana Peel S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bananas on Acid S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bat out of Hell S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bon Bon T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buttress Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cactus Practice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Blueberry S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chris's Route (name will change) S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Demon, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devil's Plaything S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hurt Me Not S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Juckets & Bugs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liberace's Anus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Limp Traddy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Major Chingadera S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Major Major S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Raspberry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Milo Mindblender S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pimp Caddy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Pimp Daddy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Pinche Wey S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Prickly Proctologist S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Can Bolt S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Steve Dyker ~1990
Page Views: 1,623 total, 12/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start on a low-angle left facing dihedral to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt, taking note that it is in an awful spot for the draw. Pass the second bolt to a long easy run-out to the closely spaced 3rd and 4th bolt. Make a big move and head to the anchors.

Location

On the right side of major wall, just to the right of Bon Bon and Hurt me Not. About 30 yards further right are two more bolted routes Milo Mindbender and Major, Major, Major.

Protection

4 bolts + Anchors. Not a great route to be falling on, especially down low, potential for decking at the second and third bolt. Occasionally gets bolts added and chopped.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.10
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.10
Currently has 6 bolts, 4 before the easy run out and 2 after. Feb 19, 2012
Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
  5.10b
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
  5.10b
FA was Steve Dyker ~1990 Dec 30, 2009
Dave Wachter  
 
I love this route as a warm-up, despite the fact that the climbing is not sustained. Gets your head on straight, with delicate footwork at the bottom, and sequency middle/top. I think the middle and upper cruxes are hard for the grade. Although it's not pumpy once you know the sequences, it can be very pumpy as an on-sight (especially if you climb up and down and up and down at the last bolt, like most people do). Jan 2, 2009
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Poorly bolted, mostly easy, but decent cruxes.

If you get pumped on this, your endurance blows. Apr 11, 2008
Matt Price  
 
This is actually one of my favorite routes as a moderate in this area. The tricky start will get your attention, and you get a nice rest before doing the pumpy finish. Sep 4, 2007