Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Steve Dyker ~1990
Page Views: 1,846 total · 13/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


50 Opinions

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Description

Start on a low-angle left facing dihedral to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt, taking note that it is in an awful spot for the draw. Pass the second bolt to a long easy run-out to the closely spaced 3rd and 4th bolt. Make a big move and head to the anchors.

Location

On the right side of major wall, just to the right of Bon Bon and Hurt me Not. About 30 yards further right are two more bolted routes Milo Mindbender and Major, Major, Major.

Protection

4 bolts + Anchors. Not a great route to be falling on, especially down low, potential for decking at the second and third bolt. Occasionally gets bolts added and chopped.

Photos

Matt Price  
 
This is actually one of my favorite routes as a moderate in this area. The tricky start will get your attention, and you get a nice rest before doing the pumpy finish. Sep 4, 2007
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
Poorly bolted, mostly easy, but decent cruxes.

If you get pumped on this, your endurance blows. Apr 11, 2008
Dave Wachter  
 
I love this route as a warm-up, despite the fact that the climbing is not sustained. Gets your head on straight, with delicate footwork at the bottom, and sequency middle/top. I think the middle and upper cruxes are hard for the grade. Although it's not pumpy once you know the sequences, it can be very pumpy as an on-sight (especially if you climb up and down and up and down at the last bolt, like most people do). Jan 2, 2009
Bob Broilo
Socorro, NM
  5.10b
Bob Broilo   Socorro, NM
  5.10b
FA was Steve Dyker ~1990 Dec 30, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.10
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.10
Currently has 6 bolts, 4 before the easy run out and 2 after. Feb 19, 2012