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Routes in Main Wall - South

Angel Wing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arrogant Bastard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Avian Flew T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back In Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boojum Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cherry Picker T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dave Christensen Memorial Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duckie Butt Rub S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exacerbator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Footprints in the Sand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Immediate Gratification S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kestrel's Last Stand S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichenometry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Cojones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mayor of Old School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Means to an End T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mellow Yellow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot to Thrill T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stellar Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taming AmyG Dala S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten Roof Rusted TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Troublesome God S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: David Sampson, Arjun Heimsath, Hanna Breetz
Page Views: 1,136 total, 15/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Oct 11, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Start under the Great Roof. Up the arete that will enable you to clear the roof on its north side. Pull onto the upper face and enjoy the exposure! Bolts placed deliberately to allow ascending a left-facing dihedral just above the roof, or climb the face that the bolts are on. Similar difficulty, different styles of climbing.

A well-protected and very fun climb, named for the abundance of kestrel feathers found during that weekend that suggested a battle of the raptors.

Location

To the north (climber's right) of the Great Roof that Exacerbator goes to the south (left) of.

Protection

11 bolts, chain anchors. 70 m rope ideal, but you can downclimb the last few meters if you use a 60m.
I suggest using a 70 meter rope. 60 meter rope will have you down climbing about 15 feet. Really really fun long one pitch route. Mar 20, 2017
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b
Nice long moderate. Definite fun! A very good option if you are looking to climb some 10's here. May 12, 2014
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Just did this again this past weekend and was happy to see that it's cleaned up nicely and is obviously seeing some traffic. Believe it or not, JJ, the rock quality was a lot worse before David banged away at this cleaning (while I was scrubbing "Lichenometry) for an hour plus! May 6, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Great climbing to about the 3/4 mark, where the rock quality goes south and so does the movement. Apr 28, 2013