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Routes in Main Wall - South

Angel Wing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arrogant Bastard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Avian Flew T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back In Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boojum Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cherry Picker T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dave Christensen Memorial Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duckie Butt Rub S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exacerbator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Footprints in the Sand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Immediate Gratification S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kestrel's Last Stand S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichenometry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Cojones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mayor of Old School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Means to an End T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mellow Yellow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot to Thrill T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stellar Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taming AmyG Dala S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten Roof Rusted TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Troublesome God S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Arjun Heimsath, David Sampson, Hanna Breetz
Page Views: 495 total, 7/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Oct 11, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Starts under the small roof to the south (climber's left) of Stellar Arete. Crux is getting established on the first bolt and getting through the next two. Taller people will likely have an easier time with these moves. They are crimpy and involve delicate face climbing. Up higher there are a couple easier cruxes such that the climbing is sustained. The FA did not stem or use the left facing big dihedral and the bolts up high are placed to draw the climb away from that corner. The line follows the upper vertical crack system and the moves are all there.

Lichenometry is a field of study that uses lichen growth to estimate the exposure age of exposed rock -- how long since the last rockfall cleared the face of any previous lichen growth. After many mouth and nosefulls of lichen while cleaning this route, it seemed an apt name!

Single line (60m) rap from the anchors of Stellar and Ducky.

Location

Just to the south of Stellar Arete, uses the same anchors as for Stellar and Ducky Butt Rub.

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos

walmongr
Gilbert AZ
 
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
 
Fun route.. definitely does not get climbed that much it was dirty with lichen No wonder for the name!!! May 19, 2017
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Thanks Tim. Mar 14, 2016
Tim Heid   AZ
This is actually to the climbers left of Stellar Arete. Guidebook and description here are correct, but the order under the sorted section on this site is wrong. Mar 14, 2016
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
Definitely a hard start. Next time I'm leading it! A lot of fun climbing and a thoughtful upper crux. Oct 17, 2011