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Routes in Main Wall - South

Angel Wing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arrogant Bastard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Avian Flew T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back In Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boojum Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cherry Picker T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dave Christensen Memorial Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duckie Butt Rub S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exacerbator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Footprints in the Sand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Immediate Gratification S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kestrel's Last Stand S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichenometry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Cojones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mayor of Old School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Means to an End T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mellow Yellow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot to Thrill T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stellar Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taming AmyG Dala S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten Roof Rusted TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Troublesome God S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: m. rangel, m. knarzer
Page Views: 554 total, 5/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Jul 30, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Mount the wide blocky chimney at the left side of the roof area. The crack becomes fingers through a small roof then incut ledges on easy rock. Continue directly above on the ever disappearing thin crack to the notch. This final difficulty is the crux, very thin pro to a great ledge, go left from the ledge to the anchor. Double rope rappel to the ledge.

Location

Walk south on the ledge trail to the huge roof 100yds from the end of the wall just before you get to Duckie Butt Rub.

Protection

Microlight nuts (double on smalls), small nuts, med nuts, double 00 C3 to #2 camalots, single #3 camalot. Several runners, many draws for this long pitch.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.10
Fun route! Reminded me a bit of the Elephant Trunk pitch on Epinephrine. Although, slightly dirty since I don't think it sees many ascents.

Mostly 5.8 climbing with what I thought was a 5.10 crux. I could definitely see it feeling harder since the crux pro was thin. I nested a bomber .2 X4 and a #2 DMM Peanut about 10' above the piton. Crux is over in about 12' and you get a great #1 C4.

Even if it was 5.10, I wouldn't put a leader that isn't pretty good at finding tricky and not so obvious placements on this. I was able to find gear every 10-12' without any trouble, but it's certainly not a route where you've got something the whole way(which I felt added to the appeal and feel to the route).

The anchor was tat and quick links- so I cut that away and left 2 biners. Couldn't get the quicklinks open so I left them on the ledge for the next person. Hopefully they can get them open, put them on the bolts and clip the biners to them so they are in the correct orientation.

Onsight gear: 1x nuts(tiny to medium) | 2x .1-2 | 8 quick-draws/4 alpine-draws

Length is ~150' so you really can't get off with 1 rope. MAYBE you could rap to the top of the tower on the climbers left and downclimb the chimney... Mar 14, 2016
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
I can't recall any other anchors nearby. I think a tag line would help. I'd be interested to find out if a 70m would work which would change the length of the route. I thought it was close to 150' tall. Mar 9, 2016
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.10
Haven't been over to this side much. Is it possible to get down with a 70m? Maybe with some shenanigan's(ex. getting to another climbs anchor, down climbing easy terrain, etc.)? Mar 8, 2016