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Routes in Main Wall - South

Angel Wing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arrogant Bastard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Avian Flew T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back In Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boojum Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cherry Picker T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dave Christensen Memorial Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duckie Butt Rub S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exacerbator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Footprints in the Sand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Immediate Gratification S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kestrel's Last Stand S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichenometry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Cojones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mayor of Old School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Means to an End T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mellow Yellow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot to Thrill T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stellar Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taming AmyG Dala S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten Roof Rusted TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Troublesome God S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: M. Rangel, B. Mattingly
Page Views: 79 total, 1/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Getting past the initial roof onto the lip feels cruxy. Then getting to the next bolt seems as difficult. The final moves are also challenging.

During the winter the falcons may be nesting nearby. Please stay off this and nearby routes if birds are active.

Location

This route is further south of DCMR, @ 50yds. Look for dark brown slab with a 4' roof. FIrst bolt is @ 10' above the ground.

Protection

8 bolts, rap hangers

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11a
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11a
Yes, cool, and similar to Ducky Butt Rub in terms of difficulty, but more heady because of needing to clear the initial roof and get to the 3rd bolt (harder than the roof). Did this again today and it's fun, but not excellent. Immediate Gratification, the one to the left, if a better route. Jun 17, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Cool pitch, more like .11-. Apr 28, 2013