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Routes in Main Wall - South

Angel Wing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arrogant Bastard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Avian Flew T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back In Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boojum Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cherry Picker T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dave Christensen Memorial Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duckie Butt Rub S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exacerbator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Footprints in the Sand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Immediate Gratification S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kestrel's Last Stand S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichenometry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Cojones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mayor of Old School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Means to an End T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mellow Yellow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot to Thrill T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stellar Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taming AmyG Dala S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten Roof Rusted TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Troublesome God S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 99 ft
FA: mark geikenjoyner, scott duemler, manny rangel
Page Views: 181 total, 2/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 6, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This will be a very difficult onsite, but only 11b/c on repoint. Start stemming the chimney til you can clip the first bolt, then commit to the face. Lot's of technical moves, some odd angled holds and a few jugs. pass the huge roof and traverse out onto the airy arete. continue difficult climbing utilizing holds on both sides of the arete.

Location

just right of Mayor of Oldschool, left of Avian Flew

Protection

11QD's, 60M rope.

Photos

Zach Harrison
  5.11
Zach Harrison  
  5.11
60m sucks on this. Tails were 5' off the ledge. Too bad because its a good pitch. Use a 70m. May 31, 2017
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11+
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11+
This is a spectacular climb! Been intimidated by it for a long time and it doesn't look like it gets much traffic, but holy cow, what an exhilerating climb. So improbable and yet it is all there. 60 m rope worked fine for the rap, but, yeah, obviously watch the end! May 31, 2013
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Just realized that AmyG Dala is not a person but rather the part of the brain associated with emotional, as opposed to, rational response.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amygdala
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amygd… Mar 26, 2013
BenClimbing
  5.11c
BenClimbing  
  5.11c
Tie a knot in the end(s) of your rope on this one! You will need every centimeter of your 60 meter rope. Also make sure that when you lower down or rap this pitch the rope lays on the left side of the arete. If you don't knot the rope and rap or lower down the right side of the arete and aren't paying attention, you will probably fall to your death! That being said, this is an awsome climb! Do it. Oct 13, 2010