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Routes in Main Wall - South

Angel Wing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arrogant Bastard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Avian Flew T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back In Black S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Boojum Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cherry Picker T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dave Christensen Memorial Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duckie Butt Rub S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Exacerbator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Footprints in the Sand T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Immediate Gratification S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Kestrel's Last Stand S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichenometry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Cojones S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mayor of Old School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Means to an End T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mellow Yellow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot to Thrill T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stellar Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taming AmyG Dala S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten Roof Rusted TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Troublesome God S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Brad Mattingly
Page Views: 838 total · 6/month
Shared By: manuel rangel on Mar 17, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

The route starts on a dihedral capped by a small roof just past fixed line. The line begins right of the dihedral on tan hangers, some bolts are hard to see until you commit upwards.

The original mixed line can be done but you have to start on left side of dihedral and at the second to last bolt, traverse right to the arete and finish on the bulging hand crack.

Location

Just past the first overhang you duck under (Indecent Exposure's arete) is a 30' dihedral capped by a small roof. Look for the bolt at the lip. Rap with 2 ropes.

Protection

14 quickdraws for sport line; single rack cams & nuts for mixed line.

Photos

manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
The third bolt is hidden, it's in a scoop. Have faith and continue the easiest way up. I thought it was a ways but it's ok, just a bit longer than I wanted for the onsite. Jun 25, 2007
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
good, spicy fun. pretty sustained. the anchor needs another bolt - right now there is one bolt and a fixed rope tied to a mangled tree.

also, the route is only 115', we were just able to get down with a single 70m rope Aug 23, 2010
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
The route was redirected up the right side of dihedral and retrobolted to sport status! The anchor has two bolts now.

Bring 14 quickdraws. May 28, 2011
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
bummer, I thought this was an excellent line as it was with good pro in between the bolts May 30, 2011
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
You can still do the same line as it was. The new start is right of the dihedral. The old bolt is gone. A new one is up and right for the bolted line.

If you do the left side/original start you have to traverse on pro for a bolt then continue via the crack exit; stay right and avoid the last bolt. If you follow the new bolted exit, you will be far enough left of the hand crack finish that it would not provide adequate protection.

Brad asked me to do it and I think you should try the new line, Roman. May 30, 2011
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
got it, will get on it next time I'm out May 30, 2011
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10c
Just did the new start/finish. What a great, long, sustained pitch! Still feels ~10c Sep 19, 2011
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
looks like the lower 2/3rds of this line is what I used to call "Ten Roof Rusted" - a diagonal toprope climb left of Indecent Exposure. Thanks Manny for making this a lead climb. Nov 5, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10c
the retrobolting is excellent and this is an even more excellent line! nice job. it's a great climb to do after warming up on Arrogant Bastard. Apr 25, 2012
Kevin D
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10d
Kevin D   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10d
115 feet of sustained climbing! Bring a long draw for one of the bolts just past the roof to reduce drag Oct 8, 2014
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
Mark, Ten Roof Rusted is right of the route around the arete in the photo posted.

You can still top rope Ten Roof Rusted from the anchor for Indecent Exposure. Oct 9, 2014

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