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Routes in Main Wall - South

Angel Wing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arrogant Bastard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Avian Flew T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Back In Black S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Boojum Roof T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cherry Picker T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Dave Christensen Memorial Route T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Duckie Butt Rub S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exacerbator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Footprints in the Sand T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Immediate Gratification S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kestrel's Last Stand S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichenometry S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Los Cojones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mayor of Old School T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Means to an End T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mellow Yellow S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot to Thrill T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stellar Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Taming AmyG Dala S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten Roof Rusted TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Troublesome God S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Erik Murdock, Jen Mills.
Page Views: 1,123 total, 8/month
Shared By: markguycan on May 28, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Three variations done by first ascent party: climb the crack and stem to the tree/ climb the crack only/ or climb the tree only- past the roof then up face to "chalky dihedral" past the big roof. Then pull the small roof on the Left through a finger and hand crack. then up short corner to rap station on the left. 2nd pitch: directly above pinnacle-follow various moderate cracks to the rim; then rap from another route eg. Angle Wing.

5.11 variation: at second roof pull staight through on fingers and small hands, up crack to bolted belay/rap.- variation by B Mattingly

Location

about 50yrds South of "Indecent Exposure", 30 feet North of "Mayor of Old School" look for the fist crack coming out of the 6ft roof right above the trail.

Protection

nuts & double set to #3 camalot

Photos

markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
 
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
 
feels easy to me, just imposing! Apr 19, 2010
bio
mesa, az
bio   mesa, az
another joyner 5.9+ huh. The starting roof is probably a bit more eh? Mar 5, 2010
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
I saw your chalk and knew you beat me to it! Good job. How was the bird poop above? May 30, 2006