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Routes in Lower Tier

Admiral's Club T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Autopilot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cockpit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crop Duster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flight Simulator T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Eye Dihedral T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: K. Martinov and A. Pon, 2002
Page Views: 51 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The lower tier on Pilot knob is the longer of the two and holds several climbs, but these are lower quality in general than the top tier, perhaps suffering a lack of light that allows more lichen to grow there. We used this route to access the superior, albeit shorter routes on the upper tier.

Climb up a somewhat dirty dank corner past a little tree into a crack system on the slab above. Work up and right on a series of occasional cracks and flakes, following available gear and instinct, passing a shrub or two on their right sides before coming to a ledge with a large belay tree shared by Auto Pilot. Belay here or continue to scramble up to the base of Tier 2, below Stress Fracture, where there are 2 belay bolts.

Location

This route lies at the right edge of the lower section of Pilot Knob. It ascends a right-facing corner at the right hand end of a roof up onto a slab split by a series of cracks and flakes, heading up and slightly right to the right edge of a ledge with a large belay tree.

Protection

A standard rack.

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