Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||K. Martinov, A Pon, 2002|
|Page Views:||170 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Aug 20, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Start from the ground into a shallow corner. An optional 4" cam protects a high step right off of the ground. Once above the cam, a bomber stopper placement can be had. Get some underclings and pinches, and stand up to a good in-cut and clip the bolt. Surmount the roof, diagonaling left as you do. No runouts yet....
Move up and right into a series of flakes. I placed 2 small Aliens (both OK) on a sling and then proceeded up and left to a very solid #2 Camalot and then a stopper and then the pin. The pin can be backed up 16" higher with a green Alien if its age concerns you. No runouts yet.
Make a few thin moves to get up and clip the bolt, barely above your gear, and then clip and go directly up (5.9) or right and then up (easier) to the 2-bolt anchor. I don't believe that I ever went more than 10' without good gear, though some of the placements I found only after cleaning them out.
This route is good overall and is slightly easier than 'Auto Pilot' but slightly headier.