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Routes in Lower Tier

Admiral's Club T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Autopilot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cockpit T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crop Duster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flight Simulator T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Eye Dihedral T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: K. Martinov, A Pon, 2002
Page Views: 55 total · 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 20, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is not a bad line, and despite the R rating in the book, it is not really runout anywhere, much less where it is hard.

Start from the ground into a shallow corner. An optional 4" cam protects a high step right off of the ground. Once above the cam, a bomber stopper placement can be had. Get some underclings and pinches, and stand up to a good in-cut and clip the bolt. Surmount the roof, diagonaling left as you do. No runouts yet....

Move up and right into a series of flakes. I placed 2 small Aliens (both OK) on a sling and then proceeded up and left to a very solid #2 Camalot and then a stopper and then the pin. The pin can be backed up 16" higher with a green Alien if its age concerns you. No runouts yet.

Make a few thin moves to get up and clip the bolt, barely above your gear, and then clip and go directly up (5.9) or right and then up (easier) to the 2-bolt anchor. I don't believe that I ever went more than 10' without good gear, though some of the placements I found only after cleaning them out.

This route is good overall and is slightly easier than 'Auto Pilot' but slightly headier.

Location

This route is the right-most route under the roof at the low point, by 'Auto Pilot.' It starts in a shallow corner and goes through the roof, then up a series of flakes to a pin and then bolt to the 2 bolt anchor atop the slab.

Protection

Gear to 3" with extra tips-to-second-knuckle sized gear if you like.

Photos

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Nate Muncy
Thornton, CO
Nate Muncy   Thornton, CO
2 bolts, 1 piton ring.
Fairly runout, and adding two more bolts would make the route better. Jul 29, 2013

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