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Routes in Lower Tier

Admiral's Club T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Autopilot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cockpit T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Crop Duster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flight Simulator T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Eye Dihedral T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FA: (TR): A. Pon, 2002. FFA B Gillett,, 2003
Page Views: 202 total · 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a so-so climb that would be much improved with a good brushing. It would be a 2-star route if it got cleaned up. The moves are fun, particularly up top, but the name of the route is probably derived from the condition of the leader and belayer after getting some of the lichen in their eyes.

Start off on the far left end of the crag, up the slope just slightly. A left-facing flake with several horizontal cracks starts the line, which is lichen covered.

Start off on the flake, placing one piece behind it with a runner and then protecting with hand-sized cams in the horizontals. Step up and right onto some feet and put small stoppers into the seam when the flake runs out. Move up onto these and place a 2.5" cam in the flake up and left of the crack, for the crux moves (5.9). Place feet wisely, and use interesting hands to pop out to the left into solid hand jams and head on up to deep in-cuts and jug-handles to the top of the rock, protecting if you feel like you need more protection there (5.4).

The climb ends by a single bolt belay (grey camo hanger) or directional, just above.

Move over to climbers right to a rap station below Stress Fracture to retreat to the ground.

Location

This is the left-most line on the lower section of Pilot Knob. It starts up a left-facing flake and works into a RP seam near an overlapping undercling flake to the left up high.

Protection

A set of cams and nuts, including some small nuts (i.e. RPs).

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