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Routes in Lower Tier

Admiral's Club T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Autopilot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cockpit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crop Duster T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flight Simulator T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Red Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Eye Dihedral T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Pon & Martinov, 2002
Page Views: 101 total · 2/month
Shared By: JFM on Jun 30, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Begin below the large roof on the right side of the first tier of Pilot Knob. Look for a single bolt under the roof; clip that, pull the roof, move up toward a little tree and continue pretty much straight up past another two bolts and a piton. Anchors sit just below the smaller, further right of two trees on a nice ledge. You may top out just to the left of the anchors.

Variations:

A. Between the second and third bolts, skirt around left for a 5.9 line.

B. Traversing to the right just after the last bolt and clipping the final bolt of the adjacent route (Admiral's Club) adds some difficulty to the final sequence.

Location

To start, look for the single bolt under the roof on the right side of the formation.

Rappel about 80' from the anchors described above and end up about where you started.

Protection

1 bolt under the roof, and then 2 bolts and a ring piton on the face, along with a bolted anchor (a cold-shut and a hanger with chain) protect this route. You can clip a bolt from an adjacent route when coming over the roof (see below).

It is advisable to bring along a few pieces of gear in the small-to-medium size. Runouts are not long or terribly hard, but a bit unnerving on the lichen-y bits.

A 48" runner on the first bolt under the roof may help with rope drag.

Photos

JFM
 
JFM  
 
The route to the right (Admiral's Club, 5.9- R) has only 2 bolts and one ring piton. This route has one bolt under the roof, one a ways past the roof, a pin, and then the final bolt before the tree. Aug 24, 2013

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