Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Steve Brown
Page Views: 821 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bill Ballace on Aug 29, 2011 with updates from Kevin Hibbert
Admins: Brennan Crellin, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is a powerful, but short line that gave me a full value pump. Mostly long reaches on good in-cut pockets up some overhanging terrain. I thought that the technical crux was the first move onto the face, but when going for the red-point it was definitely holding on for the ride. A really good route requiring some technique and also some power.

On a side note I am pretty sure some chipping was done on this route.

Location

In what I believe to be the "forest area." This is one of the first routes you come to where the trail meets the cliffs. It shares a start with "Skinny Hippie" and can be discerned from the other routes by the obvious overhanging finish.

Protection

5 or 6 clips and two rap bolts for an anchor. Given the popularity of this route it is a candidate for lower-offs.

Photos

Did this route on saturday, last bolt and both anchors are spinning. Might be worth giving it some tlc, as the tick marks and quantity of chalk on the holds suggest its quite popular. If someone in the area is willing to knock the bolts in pm me and I'd be more than willing to contribute for the hardware. Oct 9, 2012
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.11c/d
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
  5.11c/d
I would give this route more starts for the enjoyable movement if it weren't for the heinously drilled pockets. There might have been a classic 5.12 here using natural holds, but I guess we'll never know... Jul 24, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
Rather than complain about it in its current state, try to do it without the drilled holes and see what happens. If it goes, then talk to the community about making it natural again. Jul 24, 2015
wgranath
5.11d
wgranath  
5.11d
I thought this route was a lot of fun but agree that it should be downgraded to 11d. Aug 4, 2015
bryans  
Consensus is that in hindsight chipping route was a mistake in climbing's evolution, and it's useful to remind the community of this shared wisdom. Especially if some developers haven't gotten this memo. Seems this crag lost a rare 5-12 for the area. Aug 23, 2016