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Routes in Lower Hawksbill

Conventional Warfare T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Diving Board, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Encore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fat Lady, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorilla Tactics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Canary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ice Cream Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Jeep's Chimney T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King of Kings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom of the Opera T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Space Invaders T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trundle From Down Under T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whip-or-will T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,269 total, 16/month
Shared By: nbrown on May 30, 2011
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a really fun line that meanders a bit but climbs on large holds and gains some pretty good exposure. It ends just feet below where the second pitch of "King Contrary Man" traverses up and left.

Start on Jig Zag. Boulder up on good holds to a good 0.75" - 1" cam about 10' up (careful getting to here). The rest of the arete is protected okay on small cams, but sling them long. Once at the obvious large roof about 30' up, traverse right under the roof on positive holds, passing 3 bolts. At the 3rd bolt move up past a brief section of rotten rock, and then up the huge "hero" holds and a #2 & #3 camelot placement. Continue up to a ledge and get a 0.75 camelot in the rail. Rail out right and deadpoint up to the huge jug and a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

This climbs the large roof just right of the start of Jeeps Chimney, and left of King Contrary Man/King Of Kings.

Protection

Slightly spicy pro on the arete (Jig Zag), leads to good pro through the crux. Bring small cams for start, then a #.75, #2 and or #3 camelot for the steepness above the bolts.

Photos

jlane  
A purple TCU fits very well on the arete as the second piece. Have your head together on the arete or bring a second set of underpants! The crux section is beautiful! Jan 14, 2013
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
Juggy, steep, pumpy, and really fun. Gear Beta: I used a #1 C4, a blue metolius, a small offset thingy, and a green C3 (which was key), for the arete leading to the traverse. After the bolts I placed a #3 C4, a #2 C4, and a .75 C4. This thing is as steep as the limestone in Thailand! Quality line. Thanks Nathan Jun 6, 2012