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Routes in Lower Hawksbill

Conventional Warfare T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Diving Board, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Encore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fat Lady, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorilla Tactics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Canary T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ice Cream Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Jeep's Chimney T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
King of Kings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom of the Opera T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Space Invaders T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trundle From Down Under T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whip-or-will T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Thomas Kelley, Lee Carter
Page Views: 106 total · 9/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Aug 21, 2017
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The route gets its name from Thomas Kelley climbing the route in a pair of bright yellow tights with lots of body hair hanging out.

Climb up the short face to some gear then a stance. Climb some more moderate terrain to get to another stance below a bulge where the seam starts. Some okay gear can be had below the bulge. Step up as high as you can and sink a bomber medium/large stopper into the seam. Crank the bulge to a stance and get a good piece out right. Step a little higher to get to the bolt. Pull some thin moves that gets you to the last rail that leads out the roof. Plug some medium sized pro and start traversing out the roof. Ape out the final steep moves and clip the anchors.

Watch the flake at the very end of the roof.

Location

This is one of the first routes you come to on the approach to the lower wall. Look for a seam/crack feature that runs about midway up the route out a fairly large roof at the top.

Protection

Thin to #2 camalot size and medium to large stoppers. Bring some extra runners for gear below the bulges. One protection bolt and a two bolt anchor at the top.

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