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Routes in Lower Hawksbill

Conventional Warfare T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Diving Board, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Encore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fat Lady, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorilla Tactics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Canary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ice Cream Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Jeep's Chimney T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King of Kings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom of the Opera T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Space Invaders T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trundle From Down Under T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whip-or-will T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown, Brian Espe
Page Views: 691 total · 9/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jun 22, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


This is perhaps the steepest climbing at Lower Hawksbill, climbing the series of overhangs up and right of the chain anchor on P-1. It can be done in one pitch (originally done on the FA) but might be better broken up into two to reduce rope drag. It would also be a great way to finish up "Conventional Warfare" by linking it into one long pitch (it's directly above the bolted corner).

The 2 bolts placed into the roof's are monsters (4+ inches deep) that were laboriously hand drilled to make them bombproof, so feel free to take the ride...

P-1 Climb King Of Kings to the anchor and either belay there or move right and slightly down to belay directly below roofs at a gear belay (cams).

P-2 Climb past a bolt in the seam to the roof. Clip another bolt and crank out the series of overhangs past some gear and another bolt to a thank God ledge below the last roof. Hand sized cams protect the last section to the 2 bolt anchor lower off (fixed biners).


See picture topo.


3 bolts and a medium sized rack of cams. No nuts required.


Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
Linking into this from King of kings is insane! With the added slings to cut back on rope drag, the fall potential was wild. I was too pumped to place, but there is some gear along the way that could minimize the action between bolts. Good job placing the bomber bolts... and so few... kept it exciting. There are some sharp edges my rope ran over up high but I didn't sling a piece up there so it was my fault. Slings! Aug 25, 2013

More About King of Kings roof finish (P-2)