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Routes in Lower Hawksbill

Conventional Warfare T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Diving Board, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Encore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fat Lady, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorilla Tactics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Canary T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ice Cream Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Jeep's Chimney T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
King of Kings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom of the Opera T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Space Invaders T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trundle From Down Under T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whip-or-will T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Doug Reed, Tim Fisher
Page Views: 2,036 total · 17/month
Shared By: Christopher Barlow on Sep 10, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Ice Cream Direct takes an inspiring line up the steep white rock in the middle of the cliff. It has multiple cruxes, tricky gear, and elegant climbing.

Begin up a steep corner with three bolts. The climbing here is quite sequential and strenuous. Putting long slings on the bolts makes the climbing all the more heady, but you'll appreciate it when pulling the pumpy moves at the top of the headwall. Make a final long move to the ledge, step left, mantle, and sit down. Bring a newspaper and wait for your heartrate to return to normal.

From the ledge, cast off into the steep, white headwall. The seams above are thin though open up enough for gear every once in awhile. Be prepared to do hard 5.11 climbing with small gear below your feet. Beware the ledge below you. Pull a bulge, stuff some more gear, and make long, pumpy moves to the top of the headwall. At the base of the final roof, step slightly left and swing through huge holds straight up to the belay bolts shared with Phantom of the Opera and the Fat Lady.

Location

Ice Cream direct starts up a steep right-facing corner with three bolts about 20 feet right of the start of the Fat Lady and about fifty feet left of Jeep's Chimney.

Protection

Three bolts at the bottom (long slings), then RPs and a double set of cams from small (#0 Metolius) to #.75 Camalot, and a #1 and #2 Camalot. I found a #2 LoweBall useful but not necessary. The guidebook, Selected Climbs of North Carolina, suggests that the climb requires extensive use of thin stoppers. In reality, Ice Cream Direct has mostly larger gear in pods and horizontals with two stretches in which one places an RP or two. You wouldn't want to skip the RPs though.

Note: The hangers on the second and third bolts need tightening.

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