Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower Hawksbill

Conventional Warfare T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Diving Board, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Encore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fat Lady, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorilla Tactics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Canary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ice Cream Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Jeep's Chimney T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King of Kings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom of the Opera T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Space Invaders T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trundle From Down Under T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whip-or-will T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Galen Howell, John Jackson
Page Views: 2,305 total, 22/month
Shared By: Ben Sachs on Jun 4, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


18 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

A classic route that climbs a very unique sloping ramp. The first pitch (50') is pumpy the whole time and has great rock quality. There is a 2nd pitch that goes at 5.11- I believe, but it rarely gets done.

IMHO, a glaring omission from Selected Climbs, which ironically features a full-page photo of this route but no description.

Location

Right end of Lower HB. Supposedly is always dry.

Protection

3 bolts and some small-med cams for the 1st pitch. Bolted Anchor. 2nd pitch pro and anchor is unclear.

Photos

BigCountry
  5.11d
BigCountry  
  5.11d
Such a good route and solid for the grade. Thanks for the ball nut beta Tom that worked perfect for me Aug 25, 2014
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
I don't own the 00, but a 3 ballnut worked very well here. Hard to see from below, but the placement is much deeper. The gold ballnut is rated to 8kN, which makes you really happy for that last section. Also got a tricam in the horizontal before. Jun 16, 2014
Phoffmann  
 
A perfect 00 TCU protects the very last hard move. May 29, 2011
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
FA: Galen Howell, John Jackson Jun 7, 2009