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Routes in Lower Hawksbill

Conventional Warfare T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Diving Board, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Encore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fat Lady, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gorilla Tactics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairy Canary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ice Cream Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Jeep's Chimney T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King of Kings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Phantom of the Opera T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Space Invaders T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trundle From Down Under T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whip-or-will T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richie Hum, Nathan Brown
Page Views: 217 total · 8/month
Shared By: nbrown on Nov 1, 2015
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a fun new hard route that has excellent rock but quite a bit of traversing. Make sure the second is up to the climbing. It was originally started in the early 2000's with another friend but abandoned after running into a blank section. The route was recently revisited, rerouted via traverse, and finished.

P-1
It's best to stick clip the first bolt due to a boulder problem start and a rocky landing. Bouldery climbing gets you to bolt 2 under the roof (technical crux). Step down and left to handrail and traverse left, then back up to a blue TCU placement under roof. Continue along the pumpy traverse (redpoint crux) past a bolt and small cams to a semi-rest (small ledge) at the base of a right-facing corner. Small/med cam protects the corner up to a bolt. From the bolt move up and onto the right end of the Solace ledge and belay at bolts.

P-2
Step back right and follow the seam past gear to a ledge below the bulge. Climb left through the roof/bulge and up to the top (immediate right side of large rock ledge that juts out). Rap from Solace to the left.

Location

Just downhill from Solace of Open Spaces.

Protection

light rack to thin hand size cams & 4 bolts for pitch one. Standard rack for pitch 2. We used a # 4 to protect the last section, but other gear would likely do.

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